Morning BOO!
Good morning 5:20am.
North swell 2-4′. Laniakea clean and perfect.
South shore waist/chest high and clean. New South swell starting tomorrow.
Winds are light now becoming onshore everywhere by 10am.
Best spots are Laniakea on North, and Diamond Head on South.
Weather a little cloudy in the morning becoming super sunny.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

today Takeda-san and Michiko-san wanted to surf somewhere different. we always surf bowls so i was thinking where should we go? no wind, south/west swell, and monday. that means my secret spot is perfect, perfect, and perfect! we park the car, get ready, and paddle out. the conditions perfect, the swell direction perfect, the tide perfect, but something wasn’t perfect. there was one guy already out surfing! but he went in 10 minutes after we started catching every single wave. then it was perfection! the baby turtles swimming in the lineup, and the huge whales jumping right outside the waves. it was an amazing session!

then the walk along the street, check out the plumerias!

then the bouganvilla that colors the streets.

then to my other relaxing secret spot. gosh, the whales were right off the cliffs and it was amazing to see such huge creatures.

then mexican lunch, then we surfed bowls after. total 5 hours in the water with lots of waves. thank you Mr. and Mrs. Takeda for a beautiful tropical hawaiian surfing day! keep on surfing!

A new board.
A new life.
Surfed 5 hours today!