Good sandwich and good surf.
A beautiful day!

i want to thank over and over Miwa-san for translating my blogs into japanese. i hope you had a great time in hawaii! see you again!

i think i should open a Whole Foods Supermarket at my house. home made organic kombucha better than the ones in the store. one bottle a day keeps you healthy.

then fresh large brown eggs from my chickens. and fresh caught papio i speared great for grilling and sashimi. i’m thinking of what to hunt, raise, or grow next. maybe i’ll buy a cow for free milk? then eat him after? haha.

and i finally downloaded the photos that were on my camera for a long time. i got some pretty cool shots. will show it to you tomorrow.
have a great evening and get ready for the huge north/west swell on saturday!

i want to thank Inaida-san and Yuki-san for always bringing me some awesome mentaiko. i love it with my raw egg, rice, miso soup, and natto.

i want to thank Kosai-san for a super fun surf session.

a rainbow shaka for you!

a few years ago, i was shooting an article for Oceans Best Friends. we were up in the ilikai hotel watchig the fireworks. work and play at the same time. what a great life!

Kenji Sahara took this photo of me 2 years ago. so many bottom turns, so many barrels, and so many photos. thank you Kenji!
well, the surf continues on all shores all week. enjoy surfing and see you in the water.