i went to kewalo’s yesterday to watch some heats. i sure miss those days when i use to surf contests every weekend. it was cool having fun down at the beach all day long. no phones, no computers, and no bullshit. just heavy competition.
i watched Seth’s heat and was pretty impressed. he seemed like he was in another league. just surfing at another level. the north shore big waves must have helped that kid because he’s on fire!

i hang out at my secret beach once in a while. and every time i’m there, i see people jumping off the rocks. i love jumping off myself, and i love watching others jump off too. it’s just you and the amazing nature. nice jump girl!
oh, wanted to say Happy Birthday to two very special people from Ishinomaki, Japan. Happy Birthday We Are One Market Naomi-san, and Happy Birthday Freesurf Azumi-san! hope you the best year ahead. see you both soon!

I’m at Diamond Head now.
Head high and perfect. Long long rides.
71 surfers out now at 7:41am. OMG!

Human Motorcycle? Look good.
Good morning 6:05am.
North shore coming alive! 1-2′ now but 6-8′ by this afternoon. Buoy 1 is coming up.
South shore coming up. Shoulder high with bigger sets at Ala Moana. Diamond Head bigger and super clean.
Winds are light so perfect morning conditions everywhere. Onshore winds coming around 10am.
Weather will be perfect.
Plan is surfing.
Have a wonderful day!