i couldn’t believe how crowded laniakea was this morning. crazy!!! it looked like waikiki! i ended up surfing somewhere else that was pretty dam good. a few friends and long rides. everybody happy!

and i was happy to see these photos on Go-Naminori Official Blogger Nishizeko’s Blog! now i can relive the moment. a moment that happened so fast and a moment that wasn’t even supposed to happen. i truly believe that timing in everything and for this barrel, timing was everything. i remember this wave coming to me after being out for 5 minutes in the lineup. sometimes it takes me 3 hours to got a wave like this because backdoor is the hardest place in the world to catch a wave. a simple take off, a simple bottom turn adjust my speed to get me into the barrel, and when i saw the wave lineup like this, i already knew for sure i’m going to get a sick barrel!

i pull in right under the lip, stand up, drag my right hand in the wave to slow down so i can get deeper, then i’m smiling big time!

i stand there for a few seconds, let the lip go over my head, get spit out, and was the happiest surfer that day. thanks Nishizeko-san!!!!
anyway, big waves on the way! see you out there!!!!

i have every type of camera/video equipment you can think of. each day is different and each camera has it’s goods and bads. i took my gopro out the other day and took some awesome video. i got the video, and i got the stills. each frame, each moment, each memory. when i look deep into my archives of millions of photos, i’m always telling myself “priceless.” as time goes by, the photo is worth more and more to me. so for now, i’m going to shoot as much as possible and when the day comes to show people my circle of friends, nobody will be left out.

Inaida-san enjoys anything. from huge bowls breaking out by the red buoy to small waist high, it’s all fun!

i can’t imagine Yuki-san not smiling. from the take off, to the turn, to the pull out, to the paddle back out, she’s always smiling! such a happy surfer!

Katsura-san’s surfing went up 3 levels in the past 3 days. she finally learned how to turn and control the board. from now on is the easy part and she’ll get better and better faster and faster!

i love this photo. sharing a wave that is shaping up to be a good one. see the swell? how cool is that? riding a swell like this is an awesome feeling. for me it doesn’t matter if it’s waist high or 20′. just flowing with the ocean is what i love to do. this is surfing. this is life.

What happened to the sun?
Where is Oahu? Behind the dark clouds.
No sunburn Sunday! Enjoy!