Jan. 1st and 2nd weather

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Rain, rain, and rain!

All Japan Champion Shun Murakami @ Pipeline

the last north shore swell was huge. it was the kind of day where only the bravest men will paddle out. well, a few brave boys joined the men and Japan’s 15 year old Shun Murakami was one of them. Shun just started riding for Volcom and is one of the lucky few in the world to be staying at the Volcom house right in front of pipeline. the good thing about staying there is you’re right in front of pipe, and the bad thing about staying there is that you have to paddle out on any and every day. if you sit in the room while the waves are barreling, that might be your last night at the Volcom house as it hosts the worlds best. it’s pretty make it or break it. so the biggest day of the year, Shun paddles out and gets the best barrel of his life.
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luckily my sister was there to take these photos. if she wasn’t, this wave might have been just a memory for us. but now, Shun has proven that he can survive the biggest and scariest day of the year at pipeline. and also get barreled!
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the pull in.
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it takes courage and bravery to pull into a wave that can kill you.
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and to make it has to be the best feeling in the world.
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Shun’s smile says it all! this is one of the most respectful kids i’ve ever met in my life. he stayed at my house before, and also my sisters house before. and the he knows he is always welcomed. but now, he’s on the next level of becoming japan’s next pipe master. Go-Shun!
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hey Shun, we are all proud of you! and thank you sister for taking these photos. it means a lot to me seeing this kid go from surfing knee high ikumi beach in shikoku to surfing 15′ pipeline on the north shore of oahu.

January 2, 2013 Hawaii Surf Report


OMG! Heavy rain all week! Happy New Rainy Year 2013! I love it!
Good morning 6:40am.
North shores still big but can surf. Yesterday no, today yes.
Pipeline 4-6′ and sometimes good barrels.
South shore small. Yesterday clean, today clean too.
Ala Moana waist high, Diamond Head a little bigger.
Heavy rain today with strong North/East winds.
Today is surfing and shopping day!
Keep warm and have a wonderful day!