Yesterday’s pink sky after sunset.
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore coming up again.
Small now but big by this afternoon.
1′ morning to 8′ afternoon. Be careful!
South shore waist high and bigger at Diamond Head.
25mph trade winds so good conditions.
Sunny day.
I’m going North to surf and photo shoot.
Have a wonderful day!

i want to thank Inaida-san for this beautiful photo of Tokyo! i’m guessing this is sunset time? anyway, within all that concrete offers the best food in the world. i really miss it already.

hey, big north/west swell tomorrow afternoon, and another one on sunday. then another one next week. winter season is here on the north shore of oahu!

in the beginning of this year, i remember the yen/dollar rate being 75 yen/dollar. now it’s up to 85 yen/dollar. do you know what that means? the yen weakened 12% in less than a year. so if you bought 1 million US dollars a year ago, it would be worth $1,120,000 now. that’s $120,000 more or 10,261,200 yen more. i’ve been watching the currency exchange market ever since i went to japan 22 years ago. back then, the exchange rate was 140 yen/dollar. if i were a millionaire back then, i’d be a billionaire now just from the yen/dollar currency market. shucks!

and last, i might not be a millionaire, but my chickens are already saving me big money! i’ll never have to buy eggs from the supermarket again. it doesn’t get any more fresh than this. thank you pepper, peanut, and butter!

i pulled up to my sisters house they rent on the north shore yesterday and i saw the kids and tony getting ready for a motorcycle mountain trail ride.

tony, isaiah, and seth on the first round. when they left, i couldn’t wait for them to come back because i wanted to ride too. it’s been about 15 years since i rode and i was ready for the challenge again.

this is the view from the deck of the house. we were on the table talking story and watching the beautiful waves. joshua had tammy’s camera and took these photos.

this is Nathen or John John Florence dropping in on a big one. these kids paddled out from the beach. i took some photos too but i forgot my camera at the house. gosh, i’m losing my mind!

i went riding with tony and seth. if we had the video camera from our ride yesterday, it would be hilarious. i flipped over the handlebars 2 times in the trails. and i almost killed myself by flipping backwards trying to make it up this steep hill. 3 times wipeout and tony said, “hey, enough already before you get hurt.” gosh, i want to go back and try again. yeah, i might get hurt but the challenge is just too tempting.

my beautiful niece kelia moniz is going back to california tomorrow. it’s hard to believe she’s world champion because she’s just a normal girl just having fun. i’m pretty sure she will win a few more world titles before she retires.

and hey, 3 giant swells are heading to hawaii. december 30th will be the first one and there is a good chance the eddie aikau contest at waimea bay might GO! stay tuned for updates.