good evening. surfed super fun bowls this morning. some leftover head high sets but not as much energy left. still fun, and still lucky to be surfing the south shore in october. tomorrow should be much smaller on the south but just in time as the north shore awakens again. expect the waves to come up rapidly tomorrow and peak on saturday at 12-15′. yeah, huge! the high surf advisory is up and everybody’s getting excited. yeah!!!
my friend sent me an email about this crazy story. if you are under 18 years of age, please don’t read any further.

this 20 year old brazilian girl named Catrina Migliorini was selling her virginity for the past few weeks. what? virginity? are you kidding me? but yes, she was selling it online to the highest bidder and guess who placed the highest bid of $780,000 or 63 million yen. a japanese man by the name “Natsu.” gosh, i’m glad it wasn’t my friend Matsu. haha.

this young woman claims it was a business decision. and they are filming it and making a movie out of it. OMG! what is this crazy world coming too? this is pretty and disappointing. they are going to do it in an airplane flying between australia and the US because there are no prostitution laws in the air. i have nothing further to say except “shame on the guy who paid that money to take this young girls virginity.”

Get off the road! Abunai!!!! haha

with the weird winds we’ve been having this month, the morning is always the best conditions. i pass by diamond head every morning and when i see the perfect waves roll in, i get super excited! i can see people running down the mountain to get into the water. such a cool location for a morning surf session before the work day begins. and if you get down there early enough, you can see the sunrise. and if you haven’t, you don’t know what you’re missing.

i was at U.H of Hawaii yesterday. i was people watching for a while and was just laughing because i could just imagine myself there 20 years ago. i use to walk around college with sand on my feet. i use to go to class and dream about my morning session. eat pizza in the cafeteria everyday for lunch. study in the library until 2am. till this day, i still can’t believe i graduated. i sacrificed 5 years of my life to live the wonderful life i’m living now. was it worth it? back then, no way. but now when i think about it, it was well worth it. if it wasn’t for my education, i wouldn’t be living this dream life.

i still can’t believe this guy got stabbed by a stranger in the day light at tantalas. he was just riding his bike when the guy got out of his car and stabbed him. how crazy is that?

and the guy didn’t get caught yet. next time i go up there, i’m taking a knife to protect myself.

corona and tequila. i went deep into mexico about 6 years ago and lived the mexican life. surf early morning, eat tacos for lunch and dinner, and sip on corona beers while taking tequila shots at night. it was there when a wise mexican introduced me to Don Julio. ever since, we’ve been friends for years. haha.