i had a great time surfing with Takei-san this morning. big east swell, trade winds? i checked everywhere this morning but forgot about a locals only spot that’s really good with these conditions. we paddled out and surfed with my 2 local friends guy and clint. head high and perfect rights! we scored! then came in and long boarded rock piles with Inaida-san and Yuki-san. only us and super fun waves. another long day in the water and it’s time for dinner: JUICY STEAK! and OMG, i think i better cut my hair?

went through my old i photo looking for video clips. found some classic videos i took throughout the years i haven’t posted on youtube. just going to hang on to it. also found some photos that weren’t published in the mags so wanted to share them with you. here is Kekoa Mau in East Indonesia. nice fat dogtooth tuna Kekoa!

last, this passenger got drunk in an airplane so the flight crew and some other passengers tied him up to his chair. haha. behave everyone!
have a great evening and keep on surfing!

Surfed 4 hours today!
Feel so fresh.

it was just a matter of time when this young boy was going to step up with the worlds best at the deadliest surf spot in the world. you really can’t push kids to surf big waves, they kind of have to want it themselves. from surfing queen’s to pipeline is like driving a race car at disneyland to nascar. and when pipeline is breaking on the 3rd reef with closeout sets washing through, you have to be ready for some long hold downs. last week was Seth Moniz’s time to take the biggest step in his surfing career. he paddled out while his mom was stressing on the beach. he paddled into one of the biggest waves out there, and survived. he got the wave, mom got the shot, and next is jaws. at 15 years old, Seth is growing up too fast. he’s the kid from hawaii the world is looking at and i’m sure he will make his mark on big wave surfing just like how his dad did. good job Seth! relax, deep breath, and go for it!!!!
check out part of this 100 shot sequence his mom took stressing from the beach. gosh, i think any parent would be freaking out because pipeline is the real deal. and when you scroll to the bottom photos, look behind the wave. you will see a dark blue mountain forming in the horizon. that is a 18′ hawaiian scale wave, or 40′ face. if Seth couldn’t dive 50′ and hold his breath for 2 minutes, i’d be worrying. but i have a lot of confidence in him. survival!