Dawn Surf, Kahuna, Waikiki Fight

October 3, 2012

what a long emotional day for me. the things that happen in one ordinary day for me is just too much. today was an emotional roller coaster.

first, i wake up before 5am and wanted to get in the water before the sun came up. i drove to a secret spot, nobody was out, then the sky turned from black to red. the clouds looked like it was on fire. the sun rose, and i was riding perfect waves into the most amazing sunrises i’ve ever seen. i couldn’t have been in a better place.

the waves were good all day long. just perfection on every shore of the island. a surfer just couldn’t ask for any more.

then i had an 9am appointment to meet a Kahuna or “hawaiian minister.” he came to bless my friends new penthouse. i had a great cultural experience as he was chanting and blessing the room. this is traditional in hawaii to take away the bad spirits and leave it open for new ones. as we were in a circle in the room, i could feel the spirits everywhere. i had the chills and chicken skin. it felt weird but after it was all done, everything was gone. do you believe? now i do.
then i went to bowls to check out the waves. on the way there, i seen 2 guys fighting in the middle of the street in waikiki, kalakaua avenue to be exact. one guy had the other guy on the ground, then i seen another guy running there. i thought he was going to help but instead, he started punching the guy in the head. the guy was practically unconscious. then one of the guys pulled out a knife or something and i saw him stab the other guy who was on the ground repeatedly in the face. up and down and blood all over. i was shocked. there were tourists screaming, there were cars tooting their horns, and there were people in just shock. one guy that got beaten and stabbed laid lifelessness in the middle of the street in kalakaua. and this was at 10:30am. i seriously thought it was a filming for Hawaii Five O or something. it was just so surreal and it bothered me all day long. and still is. the motion of the guy stabbing the other guy, the people screaming, and all the blood. it was so sad to see something like this in broad daylight in the middle of waikiki. what is this world coming to?
after that, i jumped in at bowls, caught 10 perfect sets, came in, and i’m still traumatized.
then i went to ala moana shopping center and waiting in an endless line. then went to visit a friend, then watch rocks fall into my car. what a long day. i’m going to sleep. good night.