teaching surfing to kids is the coolest thing. especially kids i know since they were born. just to see them grow and experience different things. i’m sure Renosuke will be looking back at this photo when he gets older and laughing at it. what can we learn from a photo? he Renosuke, next time, slide your hands more back to your chest so you can stand up easier. it’s too forward now so look at this and remember for next lesson. i’ll see you soon.

i’ve known the Kimura family long enough where they feel like my own family. and the kids are like my nephews. i won’t push them into surfing but if they ever want to get better and better, i’m always here to help them.

and for me, growing up without a father around kind of sucked. so when people treat me as their own child, it makes me feel so loved. a feeling you wouldn’t know unless you were in my shoes. it’s a good feeling, in fact, it’s a great feeling! thanks Papa Kimura-san!

I BELIEVE THE CHILDREN ARE OUR FUTURE
TEACH THEM WELL AND LET THEM LEAD THE WAY
SHOW THEM ALL THE BEAUTY THEY POSSES INSIDE
GIVE THEM A SENSE OF PRIDE
TO MAKE IT EASIER, LET THE CHILDREN’S LAUGHTER, REMIND US HOW WE USE TO BE
words by Whitney Houston
all photos by Shinsuke Matsukawa

i had planned a trip to japan leaving tomorrow. last week, there was no swell on the way so i was thinking of going to sightseeing or free diving on the flat days. then all of a sudden, typhoon 15 popped out of nowhere. now i’m in surfing mode! going to look for the best waves in japan. stay tuned! jumping on a flight in a few minutes on standby and hopefully get a business class seat. wish me luck!

when ever i take people surfing in hawaii, safety is the most important thing on my mind. i’m always thinking of how to get the ultimate ride without anybody getting hurt or beaten up. yeah, you have the reef to worry about, you have the current, you have the other surfers, you have your own board, and you have the angry locals. i’m watching for it all and if something looks dangerous, i’ll pull everything back. but if everything goes well, get ready for the ride of your life!

check out this cool rice paddy in japan. super artistic!

and to my friends who wanted to invest in facebook stocks when they first sold, you should come to my house and thank me. haha. i was totally against it and guess what? if you bought stocks, you would have lost your house already. shares are down 51% and 28 year old Zuckerberg’s in a big hole. can he dig himself out? we shall see. in the mean time, invest your money by putting it under your pillow.
hopefully have some good movies on the plane. once i get to japan, i’m going to be a busy person. dinners, meetings, driving, and surfing! sayonara hawaii and hello japan!

Perfect timing? Hello Typhoon Bolaven! See you soon!
Good morning 5am.
1′ on the North.
1′ on the South.
The small Summer waves continue.
Light tradewinds.
Clear sky.
I’m going to Japan!
Have a wonderful day!