South shore coming up! Chest high and 100% perfect. No crowds. Nobody knows. We go good waves! Go-Naminori!

I want this!!!!!

wow, how small have the waves been? gosh, seems like it’s been a while since there have been waves even 2′. i’ve been surfing everyday anyway and haven’t seen too many of my surfer friends. actually been seeing so many new faces. i think the reason is that waikiki is flat so a lot of waikiki surfers have been spreading out to diamond head and ala moana. i bet my surfer friends must be going crazy by now. haha. i still love the small waves because it feels good just by being in the water. the smiles, the laughter, and the stoke! no swells on the way so i guess it’s time to stuff my backpack with my survival gear and take a trip somewhere. where? i still don’t know. maybe dive with amasans in japan? maybe look for the dailama in tibet? or maybe walk the great wall of china? so many choices, so little time.

it’s been a while since i’ve circled the island. yesterday was so beautiful. it was a school holiday so all the kids were out playing at the beach. the traffic was crazy! so many tourist here in hawaii now. it’s been booming! most hotels are sold out, most restaurants are fully booked, and every beach on the island looks like waikiki. i freaked out when i seen how many people were at sunset beach and waimea bay. no parking and traffic everywhere! but hey, i’m not complaining. this is hawaii and this is how our economy works. welcome to paradise!

there’s been a new restaurant that just opened on 9th and waialae ave. it’s called crab city and every time i pass by, it’s super packed with people waiting outside. it must be good, and i must investigate. i’ll let you know.

after a long day surfing and driving, i was invited to dinner by some friends. i couldn’t believe when i seen the ice cold bottle of champagne. after my first sip, my body was tingling and i felt like i was on top of the world. i ended up drinking half the bottle and felt pretty dam good.

then i get home at 9:30pm. i put on my pajamas and go to my garage to wax up a new board i brought back from japan. i get a call from my college friends. “hey kirby, let’s go drink!” no way, i’m about to sleep. “i’ll be at your house to pick you up.” i put on my jeans, they pick me up, and the next thing you know, i’m in a bar at 1 am in the morning. the jacksan shots are flowing, the vibe is awesome, friends just talking about the good old days. time flies by as i’m drinking glass after glass of water. i’m dehydrated, i’m tired, and i want to go home. i jump in a cab, 10 minutes and $18 later, i’m home in bed. as i close my eyes, i think about the wonderful day i just had with so many different wonderful people. my friends are my life. without them, i’d be nothing. that makes me want to cherish them even more, and that makes me want to enjoy every minute with them.
have a wonderful day.