yesterday i ate too much. woke up at 4am and ate cereal with my bottle of kombucha. then for lunch had katsu curry from yamagen. $7 for that. then ate a crab feast for dinner followed by popcorn for desert.

from mccully street to kahala mall usually takes me 5-7 minutes. but with all the traffic now days, it took me 22 minutes. frustrated? no. it could be worst right? but as i looked out to hawaii kai, i was happy i don’t live out there anymore. i’d have to add another 30 minutes to get home. then i’d be frustrated.

i’ve been passing by this restaurant that just opened near my house. been seeing long lines so i went to investigate last night. i ordered the #3: snow crab, crawfish, shrimp, mussel, and clam. all for $38.

it was my first time there so i had now idea what to do. looks like i’m going to do surgery on someone.

i ordered the #3 and they threw a big bag of mixed seafood on the table. gave me some gloves, napkins, and i went to work. there was actually a lot of seafood in that bag mixed with garlic and butter.

once i started, i couldn’t stop. i’d say it’s a great place to go get dirty. i’ll definitely go back there again.

surfing with Kiku-chan the other day was super fun. i met her about 5 times up in sendai so meeting here in hawaii was refreshing. i really had a good time! she’s a true special girl!

i look at Kiku-chan, i get power. she’s one of the strongest women i’ve ever met in my life. hey Kiku-chan, have a safe flight back to hawaii and see you in sendai!

and look at peanut and butter. getting big and healthy. they just hang out on my deck and shit all over the place. my house smells like a farm now. haha. but once i get some fresh brown eggs, it’s all good!
the start of another trip starts today. i’ve been back and forth to japan about 7x this year. no, i’m not rich. i’m just lucky. and to all my friends in okinawa, get ready to party! and don’t be surprised if i disappear around 11pm because i don’t think i can keep up with you guys anymore. haha.

My Bro-In-Law Tony Moniz @ Pipeline in the 1980’s. Big Man, Big Wave, Big Heart!
Good morning 4:45am.
Small waves today.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Waikiki waist high and clean.
Now: Dark
Wind: Calm
Weather: Overcast
Plan: Pack
Have a wonderful day!

i can’t believe it!!! i was hoping for flat waves in okinawa so i can finally go diving. then i get an email from takami-san saying another typhoon is coming? really? gosh, i’m so over surfed and needed a week of relaxing, diving, and hanging out with friends. now with the next typhoon coming, it’s going to be another busy trip for me. if there’s waves, i must surf. that’s just in my blood. anyway, i leave tomorrow and my endless summer continues. can’t complain right?

Inaida-san and i surfed probably over 100 times already. each time progressing, each time relaxing, each time getting stronger, and each time laughing. i’ve seen his body change over the past year ever since he started surfing. stronger, and much healthier. it makes me happy to see the positive changes surfing can do for a person.

Inaida-san riding a 9’6 now. 9’4 in the making. and i’m hoping to get him down to a 9’0 in the near future. then it’s hang 5 time! then it’s tube time! then it’s mentawai time!

everybody out in the water notices Yuki-san’s progress. she gets better and better by the wave. the first time we went surfing, she was a little nervous and scared of the waves. now? when she wipes out on a big wave, she comes up and laughs. it’s cool how the ocean can bring out the best smiles in anyone.

Yuki-san’s on a 9’1 in this photo, now she’s on a 7’0. next will be a 6’4 and watch this girl doing off the lips!
we enjoy surfing everyday in hawaii. and we enjoy hawaiian style life. i haven’t met 2 people before that have a better life than mine. and the cool thing about it is they just begun the hawaiian surfing dream last year. something that will last a lifetime. like karen carpenter sings “We’ve Only Just Begun.”