Secret spot. Photo by Matsu
The waves are unbelievable.
4-6′ and huge barrels!
Uncrowded and everybody happy.
No wind, super sunny, and perfect.
This is Japan.
This is my life.
Long drive = Long barrels
Surf all day!
Dream barrels!
OMG!!!!! BIG Barrels!!!!!!!!
Score!
Almost there!
I need a massage! Haha.
1 more hour and I’m surfing!!!!
