i have hundreds of images on my desktop on my computer. some i took, and some that were sent to me. it’s time to clean it up but before i delete it, i should post it.

i took this last winter. truly amazed by the level of surfing now days. what’s next?

this is my office in the winter time. i drive out early and fight for waves. nobody is nice out there and if you think somebody will just give you a 6-8′ backdoor wave, your kidding yourself. you have to work and compete for a wave that the whole world wants. thank goodness it’s only winter time.

if you don’t come to hawaii in the winter time and prove yourself, you won’t make it in the surfing industry. it’s the standard.

want to thank Pedro Gomes for sending me this awesome surf sequence of japan. yes, this is japan. let’s keep this spot a secret.

and glad to hear the tako “octopus” in Minami-soma, Fukushima is safe to eat. this is the first harvest since 3/11 and no radiation was detected. that’s great news for the Fukushima fishing community.

Head high. Windy but fun.
Not so crowded.
Go- Naminori!

i totally forgot how hard a photographers job is. shooting is the easy part and editing is the hard part. i spent 2 hours yesterday morning shooting, and 7 hours on my computer editing. i started off with the photos i took yesterday, then moved on to the photos from mentawai. just never ending! i’m just fortunate i don’t have to do this every day. sometime is ok, but everyday will drive me crazy.

yesterday, Barak paddled out alone and had the whole ocean to himself. it was raining hard but we had to try anyway. for 30 seconds, the sun came out and guess what? a huge bright rainbow over Barak’s head. it was pretty dam amazing!

go-naminori is coming out with part 1 of part 2 mentawai web mag. when i was going through the thousands of photos yesterday, i couldn’t believe how many good photos, and good waves everybody caught. it just goes to show you that when you have this kind of talent, all we need is one day of sun. we got it, and when you see the photos, you will be amazed. these girls were ripping!
*last, everybody’s been telling me how junk the waves are so far this summer in hawaii. for me, i’m having fun. yeah, i’d prefer 6′ big rights, but surfing knee/waist high waves are fun too. my boards are working super good and my friends are super happy so that’s all that matters. i’ll take anything because i know that there are many places in the world where the waves are flat for weeks. it’s never flat here and when you paddle out in the crystal clear warm water, you better not complain. enjoy this summer and we all know that a big swell has to come our way sometime. stay tuned.