Thursday September18日 2025年

Stand by… Nervous!!!

20120724-132228.jpg
I’m ON!
See you in Japan!
See you Yumie-chan tomorrow in Chiba for surfing with the Tohoku kids!

1st time and 2nd time surfers

DSCN0381
had a fun morning with this wonderful family. it was 3 years ago i took them surfing for the first time and yesterday was the second. good to see the Matsuda-san family back in hawaii!
DSCN0389
kaito-kun is the cutest little boy. he was 6 years old when i took him surfing for the first time. he loved it then, and loves it now. hearing him scream while he was surfing was pretty funny. i like this kid.
Exif_JPEG_PICTURE
this is the Matsuda-san family 3 years ago. the came off the airplane from japan, left their bags at their hotel in waikiki, then i picked them up and took them to the west side for their first ever surf. the waves were big and challenging but they all stood up and surfed well. after that experience, yesterday was easy.
DSCN0400
then i went surfing in the afternoon with 3 first timers. Yoshiki-kun, Akaike-san, and Azusa-san. i couldn’t believe how much paddling power they all had. usually people i take out for the first time get tired paddling out, but they were strong going out, catching many waves, and strong paddling in. amazing!
another great day with great people. thank you all and keep on surfing!

M2/Nick/Grandparents/Somen/Radiation/Typhoon

what a fun day. surfed with 6 people 2 rounds. the waves were just perfect! not too big, not too small. warm, sunny, and offshore. i took some photos but i’m too sunburned to sit in front of my computer to download it all. i have to take a cold shower and go to sleep. tomorrow i have a long day ahead. dawn patrol! yeah!
weareone_03_079
this was M2 in kobochihama. good to see the smiles! photo by matsu.
IMG_1265
i took kimura-san and his family to my favorite korean surfer style bbq in kaimuki. nice smile.
DSCN0337
nick mita always wanted to donate something for tohoku. i gave him kimura-san’s address last year, he sent a box of clothes, and now, they finally meet. it was a pretty awesome moment. when ever 2 people from japan and hawaii connect in any way, it’s always an awesome moment. that’s my dream!
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
hawaiian/japanese bbq! good food, good entertainment, good friends, and good memory. photo by maki-san.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
kimura-san’s parents are so cute! they remind me of my grandparents when i was young. so much japanese culture, so much strength, and so much kindness. i just wish i could communicate more with them. they speak tohoku dialect so i understand 0.0%. haha. photo by maki-san.
afds
thank you kikawa-san for the somen. i love it!
IMG_0510
when i first came back to hawaii, my dosimeter started beeping in the middle of the night. it was soooo weird!
t2kgraphsat
and look what’s going on in the pacific ocean. something turning into a typhoon? i hope to be riding swells from that in a few days ahead.