Surfed 4 hours.
Water break.
Surf again.
Dehydrated.
Old Bali Days, and Planning for 2012
i’ve been going to bali from 1993 and have the most awesome memories. pulling up to padang padang with matchi and the bali boys surfing it all morning with nobody around. eating nashi champur from the street stands with our hands. running away on our motorcycles from the corrupt police, and making big parties behind The Surf Shop complete with friends and suckling pig. this party was in 1996 with many japanese friends and many bali friends. i use to spend a month in the summer in bali and became close to many of the boys. we are all grown up now but these memories will never leave my mind. BALI BAGUS!!!
when i shot this photo last week, i was looking through my lens thinking “this father and daughter is forming a bond in hawaii that can’t be broken.”
and last, i’ve started to plan ahead. i was invited to a surf/dive trip to the other side of the world in january 2012. i said yes, so yes i’m going! this is what it looks like. i can’t wait!
June 24, Aloha Friday Surf Report from Hawaii
What is this photo about????
Good Morning. It’s 6 am and here is the Hawaii South Shore Surf Report.
Diamond Head: 3-4′ and windy.
Bowls: 2-4′ and still GOOD!
Ala Moana Park: 1-3′ sometimes 4′ set. 40 surfers.
Wind: Strong tradewinds @ 15-25mph.
Weather: Cloudy becoming sunny. Lots of Rainbows!
Best Spot: SOUTH! bowls or concessions.
Plan: Of course, SURF ALL DAY! GO-NAMINORI!
Have a Wonderful Day….
