i’ve been surfing the north shore for the past 25 years and the happiest day is always when the contest season is over. the pipeline masters waiting period was from dec. 8-20th. the ended up finishing it in the first 3 days of the waiting period which is the first in history. now that it’s done, the circus of professional traveling surfers and photographers will go back to their countries for the holiday season. it’s local time from now. my boards are ready, my cameras are ready, and i’m ready. my goal before the end of this year is to get a giant 8′ barrel at backdoor. i can’t wait!

pipeline is a wave that can make or break you. you get a good wave, you will be happy forever. you get a heavy wipeout, you will be traumatized forever. and if you think you can just paddle out there and catch a good wave, your mistaken. pipe is the hardest spot in the world to get a wave at. if you can get waves at pipe, you can get waves anywhere in the world.

backside means going down a wave with your back against the wave. grab rail means holding the rail of your surfboard so you can pull yourself up the face of the wave to position in the barrel. so in surfer terms, this guy is “grabbing rail backside.” the best way to get barreled at pipe!

This is called “The Well of Death” in India. Looks so fun!!!!
Good Morning 6:15 am Monday morning.
North Shore: 1-2′ and junk.
South Shore: Flat.
Best spot: Sandy Beach and Diamond Head.
Weather: Rain/Cloudy/Windy/Dark.
Wind: STRONG!
Plan: Surf All Day!
Have a great one!

Cold and Beautiful!