20 MILLION TONS OF DEBRIS FROM JAPAN COMING TO HAWAII AND THE USA IN 3
YEARS!
Good 6:15 am Tuesday morning.
Are you feeling good? I am!
Are you feeling fresh? I am!
Are you ready to surf? I am!
How’s the waves?
North shore: 1-2′ and super clean! Laniakea looks really fun!
South shore: Waist, maybe shoulder at Diamond Head. Super clean
everywhere.
Winds: Weird. Trade winds? South/West?
Weather: Beautiful Again!
Plan? Surf ALL DAY!!!!

Surf & Sleep. I want one!

Thank you Mark for sending me the photo!

wow, i totally had the six sense this morning. with these weird winds, nothing is predictable. i woke up, checked everywhere, and it was clean. 20 min later, everywhere was ugly with south/west winds. ok, i’m going to diamond head because it handles the south/west winds there. i pull up, it was super clean! head high and perfect. then i go pick up Dr. Matsumoto and as i was driving to his hotel, i noticed the clouds going to the east. eeh? when the clouds change to another direction, usually the winds follow about 30 minutes later. we head to bowls, and i gave Dr. Matsumoto a choice. go surf diamond head with 50 surfers? or surf bowls with 3? pretty easy answer. we paddle out, the winds turn off shore, and we have a great session! great timing? no. lucky? no. today was my sixth sense telling me where to go. and we scored big time!!!

i have a lot of Doctor friends who surf. one thing i can say: COOL! Dr. Matsumoto was ripping out at bowls and caught so many waves. he told me that this mornings session was 1 months worth of surfing for him in japan. that makes me happy! Thank you for today Dr. Matsumoto. Please enjoy the rest of your stay in Hawaii! Go-Naminori!