once in a while i get crazy at night. this night was once in a while. when i’m with my friends, i let everything out. no holding back, no bullshit, and no memory. haha.

craig sako gave me his special formula of umeshu. i’m waiting for the right time to open it up, and drink it all! looks so good! thanks craig!

a lot of people ask me what’s the closet i gotten to sharks. a few came over my ear from behind before, one almost attacked me from behind, and i’m sure he wasn’t the only one. this one came about an arms length from me as i said “cheeze.” nature is awesome. you just never know what your going to experience at any given day. and i love it.

i shot this photo last month on M5 in fukushima. it’s sad and heartbreaking to think how many loved ones are still missing after 8 months. words can’t express how i feel.

7 more days till Paradise Island! I’m so excited!
Good morning 5 am.
Jet lag? no, just woke up early.
South: I think small again. Rockpiles, Diamond Head best.
North: I think big! Maybe 6-10′ and good Sunset Beach, Pipeline, and
Haleiwa. Haleiwa International Open Contest ON from 8am. Junior mens
surfing today.
East: Windy wind swell. Sandy’s and Makapuu overhead.
West: I think 3-5′ and perfect offshore!
Windy day, with sunny sky. I’m going surfing!

Yasui-san and i had a great time today. surfed for 3 hours, ate malaysian curry, drank a smoothie, and checked out harley davidson’s. the waves were so fun and i was impressed on how good yasui-san surfed. in fact, 2 other locals said to me, “wow, your friend rips!”
hey Yasui-san,
i had a great time today.
keep on surfing and hope to see you in miyazaki someday.
and please tell higashikawa-san i said hello. it’s been 6 years since our last maldives boat trip.
enjoy the rest of your vacation in hawaii.
aloha

my sister sent me this photo. it looks like the first japanese bodyboarder is here! does anybody know who this is? this is a pretty big wave at ehukai.

the fish i speared the other day is called a “Munu” or Joe Lewis. it weighed in at almost 3lbs. and is one of the most prized fish in hawaii. you hardly see them getting this big. score!
big swell tomorrow, bigger swell on new years day, bigger swell next week tuesday. it’s time to get serious! goodnight!