my breakfast. 2 oranges and 1 apple. eat healthy!
good morning with your 6 am hawaiian surf report.
south: BIG! still going off! ala moana 3-4′ + and PERFECT!
north: i don’t know, i don’t care.
wind: tradewinds @ 10-20 MPH.
weather: cloudy becoming SUNNY!
forecast: south swell coming down but still SOLID! waves everyday!
happy summer!
plan: surf all day, surf all day, surf all day!
have a wonderful surfing day in hawaii.
Surf 2 rounds.
Surf 4 hours.
Catch 50 waves overhead.
Get barreled 9 times.
Run over 5 surfers.
Get run over 1 time.
Ding my board.
Get sunburned.
Meet friends.
Laugh.
Excitement.
Memories.
Take shower.
Watch this sunset driving home.
Do I have the best job in the world?
Yes, I think so.
Tomorrow?
Samasama in Indonesian means “same thing.”
Goodnight and see you in the water!
Live the life you love,
Love the life you live.
that girl in this photo is angela maki vernon. i don’t think she realized how big the damage was until she seen and smelt it with her own eyes and nose. this is a famous surf spot in fukushima called “kitaizumi.” i’m not sure if it will ever be the same.
