everybody asks me what i do everyday in hawaii. first, my main job is to surf. i wake up at 5:30, check the waves, and go from there. if the waves are going off, my job is to surf! if it’s not that good, i grab my camera, surf, and shoot something i think is interesting. photos? videos? fish? i want to capture everything. the waves have been excellent ever since i got back to hawaii so i’ve been spending 4 hours/day in the ocean surfing. as soon as the waves drop below 2′, i’m going diving. my boat is ready and so is my mind.
wanted to thank everybody for sending in the comments on the youtube video i posted the other day. it’s pretty easy for me because nothing is staged and nothing is edited. just roll the video and post. a lot of guys don’t like it when their not so good riding is taken but i don’t care. i take, i post, and that’s the way it is. most people that visit go-naminori don’t give a dam on how good you surf. they just want to see the positive vibe and the happy faces.
i have 3 other cameras charged up and ready to go. if you want to be on a video, smile. if not, run away.
anyway, going back to the computer work that has to be done. i realized that nobody has a better job than me and because of that, i’m going to work(surf) harder than ever. good day!
CAPTURE!
June 6, 2011 Hawaii Surf Report
Stand up Paddle in Tahiti!
Good Morning 6 am Surf Report
Diamond Head: 4′ and side wind
Ala Moana Bowls: 3-4′ and PERFECT. 8 surfers out
North Shore: 2′
Wind: Light tradewinds @ 5 mph
Weather: Cloudy becoming Sunny
Plan: Surf Big Rights/Get Sunburned/Eat big lunch.
Have a Wonderful Day!
MISSION 2 IN KOBOCHIHAMA
the photo with our mission 2 crew is in a lost little village called “kobochihama.” we found out about this place by just driving around asking where people needed help. this village got wiped out but 4 or 5 houses that were on the hill survived. the locals that lived there didn’t want to go to into the evacuation center because they were waiting for their missing loved ones to return. they had no electricity and no water so when we pulled up with our trucks full with food, it felt like we were there for a reason. we passed out food, water, clothes, and vegetables. the most appreciative and the most kindest people in the world. not to mention, strong. finding this little village is the main purpose we do our missions. to help the people that need it the most.
i’m going back there again and again.
