pulling up to the north shore and seeing the dirty brown water is disappointing. when will it clear up????

yesterday’s barrels were as round as it gets out at pipeline. you could fit a car in there….

there were absolutely zero photographers in the water. why? because everybody was probably too scared. would i have swam out? probably not. then i see kamio walking down the beach. this guy has balls! paddling out to huge pipe with a surfboard is easy. swimming out with your $5,000 camera gear is crazy. it takes BIG BALLS! i did it a few times and you have to mentally prepared to die. every 15′ set your swimming under, your praying. i’m freaking serious…. i give kamio a lot of credit and can’t wait to see some of the photos he took….

For Marcus

Marcus, Kelia, Alisha, Pono, (aka Vincent in LOST), Hone, and Nui…..
Virginio “Marcus” Marcos May 23, 1961 – December 6, 2010
A “Celebration of Life”
Today: Saturday 22, 2011
Ft DeRussy Beach Park
8:30am Prayer and Song
8:45am Paddle Out to Threes
10:30am to 6:30pm Prayer, Lunch, and Music
Hawaii Surf Report:
North: 8-10′ Clean with little morning sickness
South: Knee/Waist Clean
Wind: Windy Tradewinds
Weather: Sunny/Cloudy with lots of Rainbows!
Plan: Say good bye to Marcus. Then catch a wave for Marcus!
Hope to see you there…..