Japanese Legends in Hawaii. North Shore 2010/2011 Season
6:30 Good morning Surf Report.
North: BIG! 4-6′ and Coming UP! 10-12′ this Afternoon?
South: 1′ maybe 2 @ Diamond Head
Wind: East @ 7 mph
Weather: NICE Day!
Conditions: Super Morning Sickness. Little Bumpy!
Best Spot: Diamond Head and Haleiwa, Sunset, Afternoon Pipeline!
Buoy 1: 12.5 feet 17 seconds. last night 10.2 feet 21 seconds!!
HUGE!
Contest: HIO @ Haleiwa ON!!! HUGE WAVES!!! GO-JAPAN!
Plan: SURF ALL DAY!!!
Have a wonderful day!

good evening. i pulled up to pipe/backdoor at pitch dark this morning. i grabbed my 6’6 and paddled out. the waves were 4-5 and dangerous. shallow and a lot of backwash. i caught one pipe wave, and one backdoor wave and that was enough. a great way to start out my 2011!! then came back to town and surfed bowls for 4 + hours. i’m surfed out!!!

i stopped by haleiwa on the way back to town. the waves were 2-4′ and perfect!!!

today was a perfect day to SUP! the lineups were uncrowded in the morning. i was driving back to town before the sun rose. it was pretty weird….
i have so much more to talk about but i’m too tired! the buoy jumped up to 8 feet 21 seconds so BIG surf tomorrow. better go to sleep….

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