last week, i got a really long barrel at backdoor. so long that i came out past off the wall. i was super stoked to catch that wave which was one of my best one of the year. i thought nobody got the photo but i heard satoshi didn’t only get the photo, he got the video too… i remember pulling in, pumping like 5 times, looking at the tube exit going farther and farther away, then i keep on pumping and see the opening, then come out near the beach. gosh, it felt good. in fact, it felt like the best thing in the world. thank you satoshi for letting me relive one of my best waves of the year….
**click here for Satoshi Kubota Blog!!!

and thank you gordinho for letting me relive my waves from yesterday. it feels great to know that people care. and to all you photographers out there, thanks for keeping pro surfing alive!!!

and last, if you haven’t seen a canal or river in a third world country, this is what it looks like. rubbish and polluted water but it doesn’t stop the kids from playing in there. they just don’t know any better… please pick up your own trash….

My friends Babe is sooooo CUTE!!!! Kawaii!!!!

yesterday was big and thick! swimming out to shoot photos at off the wall is crazy at that size. i give kamio and uske a lot of credit for swimming out there too. i don’t know if they were scared or not but i was pretty nervous looking at reef in the face while a ton of water is crashing over you. the waves came up fast and thick. i haven’t seen pipe/backdoor like that for a while…..
**the surf stories continue so here is Hawaii Surf Story 3 featuring Norihiko “Matchi” Nakayama….

yesterday morning, february 5, 2011:
6:10 am: i call matchi. hey matchi, i’m driving out, meet me at backdoor cause i want to get a shot of you.
7:00 am: matchi calls me. hey kirby, where are you? i’m driving past wahiawa. ok, i’ll meet you there.
7:35 am: i get to backdoor and park my car. get my camera out and walk to the beach.
7:45 am: i see matchi way down the beach near pipe waiting for me. i point to off the wall. he points out there too.
7:50 am: i swim out to off the wall straight through the waves. it’s big!! dangerous!! but i need to get the shot.

8:26:55 am: i see a wave, yell GO-MATCHI. matchi goes. he takes off, almost dug a rail. recovers. i take the first sequence shot.

8:26:56 am: here he comes. i keep my finger on the trigger hanging on to the wall with my other hand so i don’t get sucked over the falls.

8:26:57 am: he passes my by and this is the shot i was looking for. this is the moment i love…
we connect, we get the shot, matchi goes home, i go surf. all that happened in 20 minutes!!! i’m keeping the best shot for an upcoming magazine. stay tuned..
thanks matchi for your hard work, dedication, and big balls for pulling in. and thank you for taking care of the kids, shaping my boards, and being a great friend!!