good morning. tiny waves again and get use to it because the next 3 days will be like this. a much needed break from the north shore for me. going to start putting together some videos so stay tuned. well, that’s if i don’t go diving… haha… have a wonderful day!

as you know, i’m a people watcher. my best 2 people watch spots in the world? 1st would have to be shinjuku station. 2nd would have to be waikiki. i can sit down on the beach and see the most crazy things. it’s always entertaining…

i give my sister a lot of credit. to raise 5 awesome kids, to shoot amazing photos, and to work so hard in the hot sun all day long blows me away. i was watching her teach surfing yesterday and was impressed. i wish my mom can see all of this….

i’m still getting in news of the disaster the last tsunami did to the mentawai islands. we received some donations and will be closing it soon so wanted to give you a last chance. after collecting the donations, i will make sure it gets to the right hands. for american donations, shoot me an email and i’ll give you paypal or bank information. for japan donations, eri-chan from honey girl is collecting donations. even $10 would help the poor people of the mentawai’s…
**CLICK HERE FOR JAPANESE INFORMATION ON HOW TO DONATE….

South on Left: FLAT
North on Right: FLAT
TAKE A BREAK….

listen to this story…
i went to eat dinner in chigasaki with matsuo and naoka. i ordered the samma fish plate and it was so good that i swallowed a big bone. it was stuck in my throat and was trying to get it out. the restaurant owner gave me a lot of rice but it didn’t work. she kept on yelling “SWALLOW! SWALLOW!” when i had the big balls of rice in my mouth. i tried but it didn’t work…
so… matsuo told me that he had bread at home. great! we get to his house and he says “oh sorry, the bread is frozen.” what? oh my gosh…
the bone was stuck in my throat for over 30 minutes and i thought i had to go to the hospital. i looked in the mirror and seen a small piece of it sticking up from down my throat. my finger? no way… a tweezer? no way…
so i ask matsuo to grab some chopsticks and try to grab it out of my throat. he refused but it’s either that, or the hospital.
he stuck in the chopsticks deep and was trying to push the back of my tongue down to reach the bone. oh my gosh!! i almost threw up so many times!! we failed the first 5 attempts but somehow got it out on the last one…

the bone was so long and my eyes were tearing from almost throwing up. it was pretty funny and we couldn’t stop laughing… thank you doctor matsuo….