about 15 years ago, i was surfing this secret river mouth in japan. the waves were almost exactly like this. 3-4′ and perfect left barrels. there were only a few of us out and we were all having a great time. on one wave, i caught a wave to the inside and jumped off my board before the shorebreak. i dove under the next wave and then BANG!!!, a huge rock hit me on the side of my eye. i almost knocked out but managed to make it to the beach. i was bleeding and feeling weird. local surfer nakaya-san grabbed me and escorted us to the hospital. i had to get stitches and couldn’t surf for a week. but you know what? it could have been worst. so every time i pass by this surf spot, i remember the kindness of one local surfer who’s name is, nakaya-san… those are the things in life you just don’t forget. i’m still trying to find a way to pay him back….

Check out this cool Sea Horse!

the other time in osaka was a day of surfing history. i’m glad i was there to witness kinsan surfing. i would have been bummed if i missed it. i haven’t seen him smile like that since the day i met him. surfing is the ultimate feeling and seeing people enjoy it so much makes me happy. i can’t wait to surf with kinsan again….
**this is the funniest video i’ve ever seen. thanks so much taizo-san for posting it. i got my version on my go pro and will be posting it shortly. i must have watched it over and over a hundred of times. haha….