good evening. south swell came in yesterday evening and is sticking around. north shore should be picking up tomorrow. light winds making for epic conditions around the island. sleeping early and dawn patrolling. see you in the water…

i packed up my board bag on the last day of my boat trip back on october 12th. it’s november 7th and i finally had time to open it. you want to try to smell my wetsuit and trunks? kusai….

i want to thank toda-san and takami-san for the awesome kikaida present from japan. this is going in my collection and i’m as happy as a 8 year old boy….

mason rose sent me an invitation for a party he’s throwing coming up on november 13th. it’s called THE VENUE and is on 1146 bethel street. i would love to go but i think i’m a little too old for that kind of event. if i walked in there and seen my nieces and nephews dancing, i would have a heart attack. i better stay home…. haha…

last, sophie sent me an email so i checked out her blog. i seen some pretty cool photos on there. this one caught my eye….
**CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT SOPHIE’S BLOG…

Kewalo’s looks FUN!

good morning. not really surprising but kelly slater won his 10th world title. i bet you anything that he’s retiring as of today. the cool thing about him winning is that he dedicated it to Andy Irons. that was cool….
as for the waves, small around the island. laniakea looks best but 40 guys out already. medium north/west swell coming tomorrow with no wind. expect epic surf!

when i was at haneda airport last week, i picked up my bag and it wasn’t completely closed. i heard something crack on the ground. guess what it was? my $1,300 canon lens hitting the ground. shit!!! i was in denial since then so i never bothered to check out the damage, until today. now i’m bummed…

i hung out and surfed with taxi-san for 3 days. we got to know each other pretty well. taxi-san told me that he’s “ame otoko” which means “rainman.” every where he goes, it rains. so the day he got here? yes, it was raining, storming, and freezing cold. it’s his first time to hawaii so even though he was here for 4 days, taxi-san hasn’t seen our blue sky….

taxi-san, the day you came, it rained. the day you left, it was sunny. this is how our sky usually looks like…

the cool thing about rain is it brings out the best rainbows. we’ve must have seen 15 hours of rainbows in the past 3 days….
by the way, i got back on october 31st. for 6 days straight, i surfed all day long! 30 hours of water time in 6 days is crazy for me. it’s my first, and hopefully not my last. i had a great time!!! yesterday and today is no water time for me. i’m staying indoors and let my skin take a break. but when tomorrow comes with the new swell, i’ll see you all in the water again… have a wonderful day!!!