good morning. 6 am and guess what? new south swell!!! i seen some head high sets breaking at bowls. 20 guys out already as they will probably finish up the WQS out there today. strong trade winds already. i surfed a spot yesterday with only one other guy out. probably going out there again today. have a nice day!!!

you probably heard of explorer surfer timmy turner and photographer dustin humphrey. these 2 guys go deep into countries around the world and look for waves where you think wouldn’t exist. pretty hard core exploring risking terrorists, sickness, malaria, starvation, disease, and many other crazy things. they eat noodle soup everyday, they sleep in their board bags, and they surf. the whole time, documenting it on film….
it was a hot morning in april of 2004 when our boat pulls up to a really secret spot in north sumatra. john callahan has been scoping out this point from the charts and told me that there should be a good right hander. after a year of planning, we pull up to this mysterious island, one of the thousands in indonesia. we anchor our boat and look at the waves. off in the jungle, i see a guy with white hair popping up and down. he was trying to hide from us but at the same time, wondering what the hell we were doing there. anyway, he disappeared into the jungle. later that night, we were anchored and just finishing up dinner when this small wooden canoe paddled up to our boat. in it was timmy turner and dustin humphrey. they couldn’t resist going without bottled water and cold bintangs for 2 weeks so they came to ask us for some. of course, we gave them and started talking story. they were in the middle of filming a big movie called “Second Thoughts” which was about timmy turner exploring places never been explored before. they were shocked to see us there. i knew that we were blowing the deal for them but after one year of planning, thousands of dollars, and days on airplanes, i wasn’t going anywhere. we ended up staying and surfing together the whole week. i bet you won’t see that part in the movie? haha…
but the cool thing about it was timmy and dustin were such nice guys. really soft spoken, really mellow, and really cool surfers….

this is the surf spot in north sumatra where nobody was supposed to know about. i was getting barreled while timmy turner was paddling over the wave. he must have been thinking to himself, “i hate these guys!” haha… thanks for the shot callahan….

**it was back in 1994 when i went on my first indonesia boat trip. we were fishing everyday and i won’t forget the day we finally caught a katsuo or “aku.” as soon as we caught the fish, everybody was thinking “sashimi.” so the captain asked if any of us knew how to cut the fish up. nobody did. so he took out his knife and went to work. oh my gosh!!! he butchered the thing. i mean, he did a terrible job in cutting the fish and i remember the look on some of our faces. shock!!! on a boat in indo? craving for sashimi? we each brought a tube of wasabi but i swear we only ate 2 pieces of sashimi on that trip. i will never forget that…
fast forward a couple years after that to another boat trip to new calidonia. we fish, we catch, our captain “Eric Morat” gets out his filet knife, and cuts up the fish like a professional sushi chef. i was sitting there in awe thinking to myself, “wow, that’s cool, i want to do that.” so i asked eric to teach me how. my first fish looked like hamburger. haha. yeah, it looked terrible. but we ate it anyway. then i started to get the feel. ever since then, i’ve been cutting up my own fish for sashimi. the fish just tastes better when you catch it, clean it, filet it, and prepare it yourself. if it wasn’t for those two boat trips, i would still be clueless. thanks captain 1 for giving me a shocker experience, and thank you captain 2 for teaching me a valuable lesson in life….

if you asked me 15 years ago if i could filet a fish, i would tell you no. if you asked me now, i would tell you to get your wasabi ready. this papio i speared yesterday went pretty well with a few beers…
**to all you fisherman out there, catch your fish, clean it, and try to filet it. it takes time to learn but once you do, you will be glad you did. ganbatte ne[:?????$B!x(B???:]

i split the head down the middle because i want to make indonesia style soup, look what i found… a freakin fishing hook!!! it was way in the back of the mouth stuck in the throat. shit, if i wasn’t careful, i would have ate that… abunai….

Awesome Photo!!