good morning. did you hear the news about the surfer that went missing 2 days ago at laniakea? i passed by there and the waves were 3′ and pretty stormy. anyway, they had a search for him that day but couldn’t find him. then yesterday, they spotted his body and also spotted 3 tigers sharks acting aggressive. then his body was gone… what sad news….
as for the waves, solid east wind swell wrap around. i surfed a spot yesterday that was about 4′ and really challenging. for the one hour i was out, i caught 4 waves and duck dove about 200. yeah, a great workout! i like those days because i feel like i was challenged. today, i’m going out there today and it will probably be bigger.
oh, for the upcoming mentawai trip? i figured why not ask? so i sent an email to the captain asking if we can go up to north sumatra, nias, and the banyaks. guess what he said? YES!! so all you dream boat members, get ready for some exploring!! we’re going to board the boat and cover some ground. sail, surf, dive, surf, sail surf, dive. i’ve been to all those places before and let me tell you, you’ll be stoked!!! see you all soon….

just another secret white sandy beach in hawaii…

don’t you love this weather? tradewind showers making the nicest rainbows!!!

i still think the taiwan nabe restaurant is the best in hawaii. good healthy food for a reasonable price. and the free shave ice for desert? did you say free? yes i did…. they are opening another location near ala moana and when they do, i’ll tell you where this is….

my goal for this year? to spear a tuna bigger than this. i’ve seen my friends spear these and i think it’s my turn. so far, i’ve got 1 trip to bali, 1 mentawai/north sumatra boat trip, 1 timor boat trip, 3 okinawa trips, and many more planned. so i have to say that my chances are pretty good….

In Waikiki!!!
Windy but Beautiful….

“Half Ass” in english means “Chutohanpa” in japanese. get this story. when i renewed my passport 2 years ago, i requested extra pages because i knew i was going to travel a lot. when i got it back, it seemed thin but i didn’t bother because i thought the USA passport agency would never make a mistake. sure enough, my passport pages filled up after a year and a half. so i went down the other day to find out what happened…. well, they forgot to add the pages i requested so they took my passport and said they will do it. i got it back yesterday and when i opened the envelope, i thought it was a joke. who ever added the pages in my passport did a terrible job. it actually looks like a preschool child did it. i’m sure i will be stopped at immigrations around the world of my now suspicious passport. look at it!

what should i do? take it back? get a new one? i’m confused. my newly passport looks pretty dam fake now. i’m super bummed out on the whole thing and kind of worried on my 2 upcoming trips to indonesia passing through japan and malaysia. will i get stopped and have to bribe my way out of it? ahhhh!!!
Half Ass means Chutohanpa!!!

moving on to brighter things. many of you young surfers don’t know what hawaii use to look like. when i was growing up, between pearl city and the north shore was either sugar cane or pineapple fields. now? houses, bushes, highways, and all kinds of man made stuff. so as i was driving to the north shore yesterday, i stopped to take a photo of what is probably the last remaining patch of pineapple fields on the island of oahu. i bet you in 5 years, this will be gone too….

and last, waimea bay was picture perfect yesterday!!! clean, fun, and empty!!!