6-10′ Off-Shore

good sunday morning. BIG WAVES on the north shore. 8-10′ with second reef sets breaking. the swell looks out of the north so sunset will probably be the best spot today. watching pipeline now and 50 bodyboarders are on it. seen a few barrels but nothing spectacular yet. well, gotta get my 7’6 gun out and get ready for some big waves today. see you in the water..

i was shooting in town yesterday. it was sooo beautiful!!! i forgot to bring my card reader so the photos are stuck in my camera. hopefully get to download them tonight…

i parked my car yesterday at my place on the north shore. as i was walking, i seen some things on the ground. i looked good and seen a drivers license and a credit card. i picked it up and had to look around me. why? because i thought somebody was setting a trap. i pick it up, i use it to buy a new speargun, and i get arrested. haha…

the person didn’t even sign the credit card. can you imagine if a bad person found these cards? they would be shopping and shopping all day long. but me? i only bought a speargun with it. haha… just joking. i went to the neighbors house to ask if it was hers and it happened to be her friends. lucky girl…

matsu emailed me and said he’s on his way back to hong kong from the mentawai’s. this was the last day. the last day is hard to leave the boat because you know that your dream is over and reality is waiting for you as soon as you step off the boat. that’s the part of boat trips i hate. but when you think on the brighter side, you can take the experiences you learned and make your life better…. then save money and go on another boat trip!! i got 2 lined up this year and i’m still looking for more chances. any chance i get to go on a boat trip, i take!!! you should too….

good evening. it was such a nice long day. started in town when i met up with kelia and alicia for a little photo shoot at ala moana. the photos came out amazing. stay tuned… then surfed ehukai with all the kids out. then surfed a secret spot with matchi. it was only the 2 of us surfing perfect barreling lefts in the evening. saw an amazing sunset, and now i’m going to sleep. there is a 6-10′ north/west swell forecasted tomorrow with light winds making epic conditions on the north shore. i can’t wait!! hope your dreaming about barrels….

i was out at mokulea the other day. if you look at the right spot at the right time, you could score a perfect wave by yourself…

still can’t figure out where this is? there’s only one place on the island that looks like this….

i was watching a video of kelia when she was a baby. so dam cute. those were the good old days when she didn’t talk back.. haha…

and last, have you ever been to a concert where the artist lip synched? you probably did and didn’t even know about it. there was an investigation that reported that most concerts these days are lip synched. that sucks!!! but when you think about it, how the heck can somebody sing upside down? i just tried it and my head is spinning. no way…