Another South Swell?
Endless Summer….

good morning. 7 am and the waves are huge on the north shore. second reef pipe with 12 surfers on it. seen a few monster barrels. town is chest or maybe head high on this new south swell. 50 guys at the park already and 18 out at bowls. expecting a high surf advisory for the south shore tonight so say thanks to our endless summer. there’s surf for everyone so get on it early. have a nice day!!!
**i’ve been surfing for 36 years so i know pretty much who is who and what is what. i remember looking through surfer magazines in the late 70’s and memorizing every single surfer and every single surf spot. my peechee folders in intermediate school had nothing but surfing photos. my memories of watching waimea bay break in the early 70’s to watching free ride and other surf movies at the king theatre in kaimuki in the early 80’s seemed like yesterday. i almost failed high school because i couldn’t memorize my history books but if my teacher ever asked us anything about surfing, i would be the first to raise my hand. anyway, here we are in 2010 and when i opened up my email the other day, a couple of photos gave me chicken skin…..

maki-san sent me a couple of photos that i stared at for hours. here is a photo of the locals in the bowls parking lot back in the 70’s or 80’s. look where they are standing. and look at all the classic old cars. this is surfing history and i will bet you a million dollars that only 1 out of 10 surfers today at bowls knows about this. and i bet you that 1 out of 10 surfers at bowls wasn’t even born…

and i got even more chicken skin when i opened up this photo. this is a DOVE SURFING WETSUIT ad of mark liddel and buttons a long long time ago. i didn’t even know that they use to be sponsored by dove. it’s amazing how far tokura-san went to making dove wetsuits a common name in hawaii. guys like mark, buttons, tony moniz, calvin maeda, and dane kealoha has paved the way for guys like me. yeah, i’m already proud to be sponsored by dove wetsuits but after seeing this photo, i’m much more prouder to be part of surfing history in hawaii and japan. thanks dove wetsuits and tokura-san for taking care of me for the past 18 years….

good evening. first of all, i’d like to thank everyone who sent me emails of the flying baby photo i took. yes, looking at that photo makes me happy too. i wish i had one of those when i was a kid. also, i want to answer the question i get 10 times a month asking me why i don’t allow comments on my blog. first, i’m so busy that i don’t have time to respond. second, out of every 10,000 people, there will be one sour grape that will post a negative comment. and i don’t want anything negative on my blog. and last, some comments i get through emails are pretty personal and i want to keep it that way. you want to comment? shoot me an email at Kirby@Go-Naminori.com and i’ll get back to you. anyway, i had another long day to i’d better get going. hope you all have a great evening!!!

today was such a beautiful day so i swam out to backdoor to get some underwater world action. the sun wasn’t out so the photos aren’t too bright but good enough to show you the feeling. here is ma-kun pulling into a backdoor barrel with kenji sahara shooting it. the water was soooo clean!!!!

my friend rick was out getting all the good waves. i was jealous….

shun-kun is a brave goofy footer. why? because 99% of all goofy footers, including pros refuse to go backdoor. it’s just too dangerous. but shun doesn’t care…

why is backdoor dangerous? just take a look at the reef. imagine going over the falls head first into this reef. i did it before and almost died. other people done it before and died. that’s why you don’t see me pulling into closeouts anymore. you think taking a chance with this deadly reef is worth a photo? no freakin way!!! so this is a message to all the people that pull into barrels just for a photo. snorkel out there on a small day. the wave breaks in the exact same place. look what’s under you. it’s like jumping into a fire. one day, you will get burnt!!!