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Surf Training is Dive Training….
good morning. GO-NAMINORI!!! see you in the water….
2 weeks ago, hayato and i went diving all day off the east side. the next day, he surfed 8-10′ sunset beach and told me, “wow, after all that diving yesterday, sunset felt like 2′.” that made me really think how important free diving is to surfing. long time ago when tony use to drag me out on big north shore days, i swear i thought i was going to die every time a 15′ set would break on my head. and there were a lot of times. i had a lot of confidence on riding big waves, but zero confidence on surviving big waves. but now that i’ve been diving, i feel relaxed and a lot more confident in big waves. knowing how deep you can go and how long you can hold your breath, it helps when you see 15′ of white wash ready to come down on your head. a lot of surfers these days are getting into free diving and i think that’s really good. weight training is good, yoga is good, swimming is good, but the best way to raise your confidence in the ocean is to free dive. try it and you’ll know exactly what i’m saying…
i came back from traveling last december out of shape. i was injured so i couldn’t do anything. 2 months later after all the free diving and surfing i’ve been doing, my mind, body, and soul is back to where i want it to be. i’m ready for anything!!
so after our dive the other day, satoshi, hayato, kenji and i were talking about if our sponsors would be mad because we dive so much. satoshi said “it’s training.” that’s so true and i hope our sponsors understand that. i hope i can encourage more surfers to get into the sport. you don’t have to spear fish, just keep training to dive deep and long and the next time a 15′ set breaks on your head, you’ll be laughing…
the best thing about it is nothing beats the rewards of this sport. good exercise, confidence booster, and fresh sashimi for everyone!!![:?????$B!x(B???:]
Flying Baby Contest!!
good evening. it was pitch dark at pipeline this morning as i was sitting on the beach next to a hawaiian sea monk. i was so excited to paddle out and get the first barrel of the day. i jumped in and as i got closer to the lineup, i saw 2 shadows. oh my gosh!! yumie-chan and yumi-chan beat me out. eeeh??? i was bummed… haha.. it was only the 3 of us surfing in the dark. for the past 2 days, i got barreled on my first wave before the sun came up. what a great way to start off the day!!!
then as i was driving home, i passed by waimea bay and couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. so i grabbed my camera and took some shots…
another picture perfect day in hawaii!!! wish you were here!!!
**here are some photos from yesterday….
satoshi kubota got some good waves yesterday at backdoor too. here’s one barrel that he snuck out of…
keito was the banzai surfer yesterday at off the wall. he kept pulling into monster close outs. i’m sure he’ll get a cover shot or something from his efforts….
yumie interview coming up on go-naminori.com. it’s going to be a good one!! thanks oomori-san and yumie for the positive vibrations….
and last, of all the photos i took in my lifetime, this one just became my top 1. i was just snapping away the other day not looking through the view finder. so when i seen this photo after i downloaded it, i was so happy!!! to me, a surfing photo is memorable. but nothing is more memorable than getting thrown in the air from your daddy’s hands. i’m going to enter this one in a national photo contest….