good morning. 5 am and i couldn’t sleep. kept on dreaming of barrels. now i better go get some. see you in the water….
as for yesterday, i forgot to thank the boys in the water at big rights. and thank the boys that wasn’t in the water at big rights. it was empty and i’m just curious how today will be. there’s only one way to find out….

i drove by diamond head yesterday evening to see how big it was and oh my gosh!! it was the biggest i’ve ever seen it in a while. solid 6’+ and really coming from the south/west. no wonder big rights was going off. i seen 2 broken boards yesterday and probably a lot more today…

since i was a kid, i’ve seen hundreds of bicycles stolen with only the part that was locked up left. could you imagine locking your bike before school, then after class, come back to only a tire? that must suck…

no, this is not in indonesia. no, this is not in the philippines. this is puena point on the north shore of oahu. cool yeah….

deeptuber has been sending me some cool photos. this one is my favorite so far…. diamond mt. fuji… i love it…

and last, recognize this guy? he just robbed the First Hawaiian Bank. if you know him, call the police….

HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR SOUTH FACING SHORESSurf along south facing shores will be 8 to 12 feet through Sunday.Surf along north facing shores will be 4 to 8 feet through Sunday.Surf along west facing shores will be 6 to 10 feet through Sunday.Surf along east facing shores will be 2 to 4 feet through Sunday.

good evening. gosh, i’m burnt out!! totally fried from too much sun. i was in the water so much that i feel like a fish!! the south swell just can’t keep me out of the water!!!

waikiki was BIG too. some of the outer reefs were breaking. i haven’t seen it that big in a long time…

i went surfing with takeda-san. i took him out to this semi secret spot called “seconds”. that’s where i learned how to surf so a lot of childhood memories came back. takeda-san caught some really good waves and we had a great time….

then this afternoon i went to look for somewhere to surf because the waves were pumping. i drove through ala moana park and couldn’t find parking. right as i was going to give up and leave the park, this guy was pulling out so i pulled in. and then i went out to big rights and pulled in all day!!
today was probably the best day i’ve ever surfed big rights. why? because after surfing there for over 25 years, i got my best barrel ever today. i paddled out and it wasn’t too crowded to begin with, then everybody started going in. why? because it was cold. i had my long sleeve top so i felt as warm as can be. then just as the crowd thinned out, the sets started coming in. solid 4′ sets and i was getting barreled on every one i caught. then after an hour of surfing, i told myself that i had enough so the next one i was going in. i waited for a set and here it came. a solid 5′ set rolling in and then backed off. it started to double up on the reef so i paddled deep behind the peak, took off, pulled in, and got the biggest and best barrel i’ve ever gotten out there. i was so stoked and came in. usually, i would get greedy and go back out and surf for 3 hours but not today. i have to pack for bali. haha…
i’m so surfed out that when i pull up to the beach in bali, i’ll probably sit under an umbrella and order a cold bintang. i deserve it.[:?????????:]
as i was driving home with the biggest smile on my face, i thought to myself “hey, i don’t think there is another happier surfer than me on this planet. and if there is, i’d like to sit down with him and have a drink[:?????????:]
i haven’t had a beer in a long time but i’ve been running on the coolest natural high ever. i feel happy, energetic, crazy, and talkative. the same way i feel when i drink beer. haha… please don’t anybody bring me down. i’ll hate you for that….