good evening. i was driving around all morning looking for somewhere decent to surf. everywhere was junky so i came back and took a nap. then headed to haleiwa at noon and the waves started to clean up. i paddled out and couldn’t believe how uncrowded it was. maybe 6 surfers? the waves were fun and it felt good to jump into the chilly water….

kairi was out at haleiwa. he was surfing good!! he told me that he did an air reverse for the first time yesterday. i can’t believe how good he got in this past 2 years. and his personality? haha… i don’t know any other 10 year old kid that can make me laugh so much…. omoroi..

if you take a whale out of the ocean and stick it into a little pool like this, something bad is bound to happen. this is shamu, the killer whale that’s been locked up at the san diego sea world for entertainment purposes. anyway, the big news is that shamu killed his trainer yesterday. am i surprised? no. is shamu surprised? no. this is the 3rd person shamu has killed in the past 9 years. somebody wanna bet me that he will kill again?
now the problem is what to do with shamu. let him live and take the risk of killing another person? kill him for killing? or to let him go in the wild and see how long he lives? these are 3 problems sea world should have thought about before they bought shamu for millions of dollars. i’m still not a big fan of whale and dolphin shows and this is one of the reasons why. whales and dolphins and other animals are smart. if you lock them up, they are unpredictable. just like humans. if somebody locked me up, crazy things would happen and i would do anything to get free again….. poor shamu, and poor trainer. everybody lost in this one…. stay tuned to see shamu’s fate…
**did you know there is a shamu live cam? click here to see the notorious killer whale…
**CLICK HERE FOR THE SHAMU CAM FROM SEA WORLD IN SAN DIEGO….

4′ and FUN!!!

good morning. 6:15 am and buoy 1 is up. another north swell!! north shore is 4-8′ and building. town is waist/chest. great surf again for everybody. see you in the water…

didn’t yesterday feel like a hot summer day? i was in waikiki and it looked like peak season summer season. surfers all over the place. and a lot of happy faces….

when i went to check the waves, a pidgin flew onto my hood. he stayed there for a minute before flying off. later in the day, i seen a fresh pile of bird shit on my front hood. that sucked…

when i was driving home from the north shore yesterday evening, people were yelling stuff at me but my windows were up so i couldn’t hear. then when i pulled into my driveway at home and seen the boards hanging off my roof, i figured out why.. haha…

and last, i got a package in the mail from my BFF holli. i opened it and was super stoked!!! i’m traveling with this!!! oh, it’s the ice glass shots i always wanted…