good morning. 6:15 am and buoy 1 is up. another north swell!! north shore is 4-8′ and building. town is waist/chest. great surf again for everybody. see you in the water…

didn’t yesterday feel like a hot summer day? i was in waikiki and it looked like peak season summer season. surfers all over the place. and a lot of happy faces….

when i went to check the waves, a pidgin flew onto my hood. he stayed there for a minute before flying off. later in the day, i seen a fresh pile of bird shit on my front hood. that sucked…

when i was driving home from the north shore yesterday evening, people were yelling stuff at me but my windows were up so i couldn’t hear. then when i pulled into my driveway at home and seen the boards hanging off my roof, i figured out why.. haha…

and last, i got a package in the mail from my BFF holli. i opened it and was super stoked!!! i’m traveling with this!!! oh, it’s the ice glass shots i always wanted…

where did you surf today? i surfed somewhere where only 2 other surfers were out enjoying the glassy perfect waves. it’s a secret spot and today was a great day to get away from all the crowds and just surf for fun… i’m completely satisfied now…. have a great evening…

i had a dentist appointment yesterday. it’s the first time i have to get a crown. the needles and sounds of the drill just drives me crazy!!! luckily my doctors name is lucky. yeah, lucky is my friends brother and after calling him lucky for the past 30 years, am i now supposed to call him Doctor Lee? what do you think???

check out maki-san ripping up bowls rights yesterday morning. good girl to call for the surf report!!

been getting a few comments about the snow surf article in vol. 2. snowboarding and surfing have so much in common. and to put the two together in one article was cool. thanks taro tamai for all the help. see you in the water, or mountain…
**CLICK HERE FOR THE FULL SNOW/SURF ARTICLE….


and last, the next time you complain about traffic in hawaii, look at this photo and feel the traffic pain the chinese have to go through every day…

good morning. can you believe the south shore swell we have now? i surfed until dark yesterday evening and i swear i seen 4′ sets breaking at diamond head. this winter has been so good on the south shore that i’m scared to see how this summer will be. flat? ever since i started surfing, i don’t remember a winter south shore season like this. good for me because i’m saving gas big time!! and a lot of driving in traffic time. i’m loving every minute of it!!!
as for today, the waves on the north shore came way down. pipe/backdoor is 2-4′ and pretty clean. south shore? still going off!!! no wind so epic conditions everywhere. the onshore sea breeze winds should be coming at 10 am just like yesterday so get on it early!!! see you in the water….

this guy was out dawn patrol yesterday at bowls. he was catching the rights and doing the biggest airs!!! i got some nice photos of him and was wondering if you knew who he is?

this is big john. john’s a bowls local that doesn’t only go left, but goes right too. every time i’m on the beach looking at a perfect right, i see john on it….

angela maki is releasing a photo book in may. i’ve been shooting her in hopes to get a photo in there. so to whoever is publishing her book, please use one of my photos. haha…
somebody sent me an email asking how do i shoot bowls. i told him that it was a secret. want to know what it is? go sleep early, stretch out in the morning, grab a longboard, grab your $5,000 camera, paddle out, sit in the impact zone, take the photo, and get ready for a wave crushing down on your head, or some surfer running you over. over and over and over. by the end of the session, you will feel like you ran the honolulu marathon. pretty simple yeah? haha…