good evening. town was going off this morning!! i saved $30 on gas and in 10 minutes, i was in the water. why not? check out the action @ bowls!!!

the dawn patrol surfers always score. i don’t think this girl knows what’s behind her. it’s diamond head. gosh, i would love a photo like this of myself….

alyssa always wants to shoot photos. so when she calls me up and says “ho uncle, let’s go shoot!” i say “shoots brah!”

it was good to see ben aipa out this morning. 23 years ago, ben use to be my coach. when ever i use to take off, he use to yell “kirby, stick it up”, meaning do a quick turn off the take off so you score points. so when ben took off this morning, i was thinking in my head “ben, stick it up!” legend surfer, legend shaper, and an ambassador to surfing….

shooting my friends is just too easy for me. i surf with these guys almost everyday for the past 25 years so i know exactly what and when they will do a turn. bowls local reid kawamae took off and all i had to do is press the shutter once to get the photo. a good surfer and a good guy….
*more photos coming tomorrow…. goodnight…

This morning going off!!!

good morning. 6 am and hello to big waves on the north shore. and hello to our new south swell. bowls is head high and going off now. i seen a wave peel all the way across. there is no wind and the conditions are PERFECT!!! let our endless summer continue!! i’m going to grab my camera and shoot bowls in the morning, then go surf a secret spot around the corner and surf, surf, and surf when the tide drops. have a great day and see you in the water..
I MISS JAPAN!!! it’s been almost 3 months since my last trip to japan. i love everything about it and now that my friends are going back, i wish i could go back too. i was on the phone yesterday with my travel agent trying to get a flight next month. i freakin can’t wait!!!

i miss the culture. everything and everywhere fascinates me….

i miss the food. especially the sashimi….

i miss the diving. especially the deep blue…

and i miss the waves. i can hear the typhoons calling me….
**as soon as i board my flight to japan, i’ll probably piss in my pants from all the excitement!!! haha…