good morning. town small and junky onshore. north shore coming up to 25′ today. weird south/west wind. cloudy. go surf? dive? hike? swim? a nice day to do all. have a good one…
i always get asked a weird question from japanese when they come to hawaii. the ask, “kirby, take me somewhere where i can get power.” power? what do you mean? then the more and more i get asked, the more and more i get interested in the topic of “power.” see, in japan, they have tv programs of “spiritual power” places in hawaii recently that make people think they can go somewhere and get power. well, i think i finally know what they mean by “getting power” and i know the place….
i went hiking up the mountain near my house yesterday and walked into one of the most spiritual places i’ve ever been too. talk about power? i could feel it in every step…
the bamboo trees were pretty cool too…
and at the end of every hike, there is a reward. either a million dollar view, or an awesome waterfall. check this out!!!
if you want more power, try eating these. you will feel like superman and try to jump off the highest building…. haha..
**anyway, i know what “spiritual power” is now so the next time somebody wants to go, this is the place i’m taking them….
Magic Mushroom Power…
2010 Pipeline Women's Pro
for most free divers or fisherman, catching one GT in a lifetime is a treasured memory. it took me years and years to get my first one and i will never forget that day. this day, kyle and i got 3. another day i will never forget. a photo like this will make a lot of divers jealous. gomenasai….
when i go on trips, i don’t like planning things out in too much detail because you never know what you’ll come across. i like to go with the flow and when you go with the flow, you can experience things that you could never imagine. we were on our drive back from taiji to wakayama city. it was a long 4 hour drive along a beautiful river. then we come across this hot water onsen lake? what? the whole river of hot water? it was weird. along the huge river that went for miles and miles was hot spots. yeah, some places let up onsen style steam and hot springs that make parts of the river piping hot. even too hot to walk on the rocks. anyway, we pulled over, sat around, soaked our tired feet, got back to our long drive. it was a bonus treat that could never be planned in any itinerary…. remember, the key is to go with the flow. and if you can’t do that, you won’t be able to travel with a guy like me…
well, after all the rumors of the women’s pipeline pro being on, off, on, off, on, off…. it’s decided!! ON!!!
April 5-19 2010 with one day of competition. so all you girls, get your entries in because they will probably have a limit of competitors. wish you all the best of luck!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR PIPELINE PRO ENTRY FORM….
Keep Warm: Dove Wetsuits….
good morning. 7:30 am and clean waves around the island. believe it or not, there’s still waves on the south shore. bowls is chest high and EPIC!! the waves look so perfect and 20 guys are already out. pipeline looks 3-5′ and clean. no backdoor shootout contest today so if you want to get barreled, get out there. i bet a spot down at mokuleia is going off right now. perfect size, and perfect winds. ummm… tough call but i’m out of here… have a nice day!!!
yesterday i pulled up to bowls and was the first one to paddle out. it was pitch dark but i think my eyes are adjusting to the darkness because i caught so many good waves. i can’t wait till the next full moon, i’m surfing all night long….
by 7:30 am, i was finished. when i came in, people were asking me “wow, early yeah? what, going to work from now?” i told them “no, i just finished work.” haha…
been eating oranges for breakfast and it’s been tasting pretty dam good. you can’t ask for a sweeter vitamin C. and if it wasn’t for DOVE WETSUITS, i wouldn’t be surfing early in the morning or late in the evening. i’m so warm in the water and when i see other people wearing wetsuits and still cold, i just laugh. something must be wrong. thanks dove for keeping me warm all the time….
remember that shell i found diving last time? i just polished it and it’s now in my collection. nice yeah[:?????$B!x(B???:]