i pulled up to sunset this morning. the waves were 6-8 with 10′ sets. i had my 7’6 in the car and watched and watched. the waves didn’t look that good but once in a while i seen a pretty nice barrel in the inside bowl. kinsan and nakajima-san were in the water shooting photos so i thought i better work. i paddle out, get a couple of waves, then decided to sit in the inside and talk story to kinsan and nakajima-san. to tell you the truth, i had a better time talking story and laughing then surfing. haha… sitting in the channel watching people break their boards, dropping in, or just getting in the way was really fun!!!

around lunch time, north shore got really cloudy and dark so i was out of there. right after i came down the hill towards town, i could see the blue sky!!! and i got happy!!!

i went from dark to light in 30 minutes. people wonder why i love town. this is why!! the north and east side could be cloudy and rainy but town is always sunny!! i love the blue sky!!!
i shot ehukai sandbar yesterday. check out some of the action!!!

this is noah mizuno getting ready for a blue barrel!!!

here is finn. this kid rips!!! i got a lot of other photos i will post tomorrow. i’m too tired to even type anymore….
goodnight….

6-10′ Off-Shore

good sunday morning. BIG WAVES on the north shore. 8-10′ with second reef sets breaking. the swell looks out of the north so sunset will probably be the best spot today. watching pipeline now and 50 bodyboarders are on it. seen a few barrels but nothing spectacular yet. well, gotta get my 7’6 gun out and get ready for some big waves today. see you in the water..

i was shooting in town yesterday. it was sooo beautiful!!! i forgot to bring my card reader so the photos are stuck in my camera. hopefully get to download them tonight…

i parked my car yesterday at my place on the north shore. as i was walking, i seen some things on the ground. i looked good and seen a drivers license and a credit card. i picked it up and had to look around me. why? because i thought somebody was setting a trap. i pick it up, i use it to buy a new speargun, and i get arrested. haha…

the person didn’t even sign the credit card. can you imagine if a bad person found these cards? they would be shopping and shopping all day long. but me? i only bought a speargun with it. haha… just joking. i went to the neighbors house to ask if it was hers and it happened to be her friends. lucky girl…

matsu emailed me and said he’s on his way back to hong kong from the mentawai’s. this was the last day. the last day is hard to leave the boat because you know that your dream is over and reality is waiting for you as soon as you step off the boat. that’s the part of boat trips i hate. but when you think on the brighter side, you can take the experiences you learned and make your life better…. then save money and go on another boat trip!! i got 2 lined up this year and i’m still looking for more chances. any chance i get to go on a boat trip, i take!!! you should too….