Today Surf: Junk
Today Dive: Excellent

good morning. 5:30 am. small waves today. it’s coming back up tonight!!! it looks like it’s going to be a great new years day for surfers!!! hey, i’m running late. gotta go. have a nice day!!!

when ever i have to check the ocean for surfing or diving, i go to this cool place up in the mountain. i can see everywhere!!! from this photo, i could tell that there is vog from the volcano in hawaii, i could tell the winds were light, and i could tell that the south shore was 2′ and perfect for a surf at a secret spot. so that’s where i went to have a good 3 hour surf session!!

diamond head looked fun too but why surf with 30 other people?

today the waves are small so it’s time for my mental and physical training program. wish me luck!!!

and last, i think it’s crazy when people try to screw around with bears. this guy jumped into a bear cage at the zoo and paid the price. stupid!!!

it’s hard to believe that our dream mentawai boat trip just happened earlier this year. and it’s hard to believe that after all the media and photos published, there are still “cover shot” quality images. surf1st ran 2 articles back to back months, go-naminori web magazine ran a 60 page article, and there are still photos like this left. i guess when you plan a trip with 3 photographers and a bunch of good surfers, you get the job done… this is numajiri in “the perfect wave”…..

talking about another perfect wave. i was out at pipeline yesterday. i caught a pipe wave and was paddling back out. i seen a thick double up set coming in and guess who was paddling for it? wade tokoro. i stopped in the channel to watch him take on this wave. he paddled in, barely made the drop, and pulled into a thick barrel. it was crazy watching him ride the foam ball in the barrel. i didn’t see him paddle back out after that and when i seen him in the parking lot after, he told me he broke his board. that’s broken board #20 something so far this year. good thing he shapes his own boards or he’ll be homeless…. great photo by kinsan…

i’m trying to look for a new surfing destination for 2010. i heard when there is a cyclone, that sandbar on the right gets overhead and perfect. so i’m looking into buying that house and islands for my retirement residence. can somebody let me borrow $20,000.000.

and last, do you know what child labor is? next time you buy a cheap toy that’s made in china or india, think again…