good morning. 6 am aloha friday. surfed and paddle boarded yesterday and will probably do the same today. i’ve been eating healthy, haven’t touched a beer in a long time, been doing yoga, and feel great. almost packed up but have a problem. spearguns are now illegal to take into padang international airport. i have 3 i was taking and now i have to figure out a way to get it in. does anybody know if i can send them from bali to padang? how much it will cost, and how long it will take? please let me know because going on a boat trip without my spearguns is like going on a boat trip without my surfboards. HELP!!
wow, i’m checking the waves now and bowls looks really clean and fun. looks bigger and better than yesterday. seen a 2 footer just peel perfectly all the way through the lineup with nobody on it. see you out there!!

when i was at tracks the other day, i pulled my car up and when i got out, something smelt funny. i looked down at my feet and seen the most disgusting thing. a pig carcass. yeah, some pig hunters caught a pig in the mountains, went to tracks, and dumped the skin and guts, and took home the pork.
my question is: why would you dump such a thing at a beautiful beach that kids and families enjoy everyday?

this surfer pulled over and started to bury it with the sand. this local said to me “gosh, how the hell can anybody do something like this?” and shook his head….

these guys buried the stinky pig and hopefully the smell will go away in a month or so. or maybe 3 months or so….
**who ever did this couldn’t be a surfer, fisherman, diver, or anybody that has anything to do with the ocean. if you love the ocean as much as we do, you won’t do something foolish like this. next time, at least throw it in the ocean so the sharks can eat it, or throw it in the mountains so the tigers can eat it, or throw it in your enemies back yard. or better yet, throw it in the rubbish can where it belongs. not on the white sandy beaches of hawaii….. mahalo[:?????$B!x(B???:]

12/8/2009
12:47:51 PM

good evening. wow! another long day. went to the fish auction early this morning. 5:30 am to be exact. it was my first time down at the new place so it was pretty interesting. and pretty freezing cold!!! i’ve never seen so many tuna in my life….

every body from every restaurant in hawaii was down there. watching them auction the fish was interesting. i bet there are a lot of fights too. the tension was high…

after looking at the hundreds of maguro or tuna, i learned a lot. learned about quality, and price. i just wish i took my shoyu and wasabi with me….

then i was hungry so i went to check out this new cafe i’ve been hearing about. and i’m glad i went because it was the best breakfast i’ve had in a long time…

french toast, eggs, link sausage, and fruit for $10. it was so good!! i’ll be going there again for sure.
oh, the cafe is called CAFE KAILA and it opens at 7 am. go check it out!!!

i’ve been surfing so much recently that my arms feel like it’s going to fall off. talk about rubber… this is diamond head and it looked fun. i ended up surfing bowls for over 3 hours. people were complaining that the swell was pretty disappointing but for me, i ain’t complaining. why? because i’ll be getting barreled in bali next week!! yeah!!!
after surfing, at some pho, then went stand up paddling in crazy waikiki. why do i say crazy? because every time i go down there, something crazy or funny happens.
1. i’m sitting on my standup paddle board waiting for a wave. this girl from new york swims out and asks if she can take a break and sit on my board. i say ok. she sits down and starts talking and talking. i think she was on drugs or something. she told me that she’s a yoga instructor. then she goes on and on about her favorite yoga pose. it’s called the “camel” and she asked if i wanted to see it. i told her no. but she insisted and started doing a crazy camel yoga pose on my board. my friend was laughing and i was kind of embarrassed. she was in a full backward pose in her small bikini on the nose of my surfboard. i had enough and told her to get off my board before i call the police. and i wasn’t kidding….
2. on the way driving home on kalakaua ave, i see this tourist father trying to pull his stubborn 10 year old son off the street. the kid kept on trying to cross the street when it was red, and the dad kept trying to pull him back. so i drive by close and honk my horn to try to scare the kid off the street. that worked really good as the kid jumped off the street onto the sidewalk. then….. the father looked at me and said “shut up”. what???? i couldn’t believe it…. i couldn’t help but just laugh…
waikiki is crazy and if you hang down there a lot, you will get crazy too. i better stay away from there for a while because i can’t afford to get any crazier than i already am.. haha…