good morning. 6 am thursday morning. still dark outside but have a feeling the waves on the north shore are good. buoys still 10 feet 16 seconds so still solid 8-10 feet. no wind and clear skies. i’m putting my 7’0 and 7’4 in the car and heading out. sunset? haleiwa? umm… can’t wait. see you out there…

i got a few emails about my new board. so instead of answering to all of you, i will do a blog on it.
this is a chris kaysen thunderbird model. kaysen is from san clemente and has been shaping for TSSC for a long time. he designed this model for small mushy waves in both california and japan. i wanted to test it out in good waves so i brought it back with me to hawaii. i’ve been riding this board everyday since. it’s super fast, super loose, and super fun. it’s a 5’8 and the shortest board i own….

i can ride it with three fins, four fins, or five fins. i check the waves and decide what kind of fin setup i will use for the day. this board is fun and has been making surfing a lot more interesting.. thanks TSSC and chris kaysen…
**CLICK HERE ON MORE INFORMATION OF THE THUNDERBIRD….

good evening. i spent 9 hours on my computer today. i’m still in my pajamas and still haven’t brushed my teeth. time just flew… i’m almost caught up with my email and if you sent me something and haven’t heard from me, your mail probably went into my junk folder and automatically got deleted. i’m almost up to date on the emails but backed up on organizing all the photos i took this year. too many… well, gotta get back to work. have a great evening!!!

the front of my car has been squeaking for a while. it got so irritating that i wanted to get rid of it. then my brother looked at the breaks and said “no pads”. oh my gosh….

yeah, really no pads… my brother changed it and now my car is good as new. it’s so easy when your brother is a mechanic and lives next door….

wanted to say hello to takeshi from irago. thanks for checking out my blog!! keep on surfing….

and thanks for this amazing photo of irago. gosh, such a beautiful place….

and last, i just got my bill for my eye surgery. $4,922.27. can somebody slap my face and wake me up???? this can’t be true…. and the bad news is that my hand surgery bill didn’t come yet…. medical expenses in america are crazy. and if you don’t have insurance, you will be homeless after one injury…

New Years Concert in Hawaii!!
YMCA… Y… M… C… A….!!!