WOW!! i pulled up to haleiwa at 7am. the waves were 4-6′ and going off!!!
only 4 surfers out? really?
i paddled out and caught so many waves. what a workout!!
the current was strong, the freak sets about 8′. 3x landing on my head.
i went to the gym last night and lifted weights for 1 hour, then ran for 1 hour.
today’s 2 hour surfing session at haleiwa was healthier and a lot more fun!!!

then i went to watch the pipeline masters. the waves were 6-8′ with some second reef 10′ sets.
backdoor was as good as it gets. i wish i could have one of those sets… maybe tomorrow?

i really don’t like pizza but when your sitting at a contest in the hot sun and super hungry from a long surf session, i’ll eat it. there was this domino’s pizza girl walking around selling pizzas for $10. what a deal!!!

i watched some heats from the beach at pipe. then i came home and watched some heats from my sofa in my A/C house. i prefer watching it from my house….

there is a store between haleiwa and wailua called “The Market”. no where in the world has better fried chicken. this plate cost me $3.50. i ate there for the first time today and i’m going back there again and again. sorry KFC….

Pipe Masters ON!!!
http://www.triplecrownofsurfing.com/pipelinemasters/live.php?x=1232

good morning. 6 am thursday morning. still dark outside but have a feeling the waves on the north shore are good. buoys still 10 feet 16 seconds so still solid 8-10 feet. no wind and clear skies. i’m putting my 7’0 and 7’4 in the car and heading out. sunset? haleiwa? umm… can’t wait. see you out there…

i got a few emails about my new board. so instead of answering to all of you, i will do a blog on it.
this is a chris kaysen thunderbird model. kaysen is from san clemente and has been shaping for TSSC for a long time. he designed this model for small mushy waves in both california and japan. i wanted to test it out in good waves so i brought it back with me to hawaii. i’ve been riding this board everyday since. it’s super fast, super loose, and super fun. it’s a 5’8 and the shortest board i own….

i can ride it with three fins, four fins, or five fins. i check the waves and decide what kind of fin setup i will use for the day. this board is fun and has been making surfing a lot more interesting.. thanks TSSC and chris kaysen…
**CLICK HERE ON MORE INFORMATION OF THE THUNDERBIRD….