good morning. 6am and i feel it again. the waves on the north shore should be going off. the buoy is broken so i don’t know how big but i’m guessing 4-6′ and perfect. and another big new swell by this afternoon. i’m going surfing!!! see ya….
i don’t have a long huge lens so i can’t shoot the waves at waimea bay from the beach. i leave that up to the professionals. i just take the shots of the “behind the scenes”… check um out…

this swell was forecasted 10 days before the contest so every single person on the island knew that the eddie was happening. the whole waimea bay was lined up with people from all walks of life….

and if you wanted to use the toilet? good luck. the bushes right behind was a better choice…. or the shower would work too… haha…

talk about timing. i arrived to waimea right as wakita was making his way to the beach for his heat. i didn’t want to miss the moment. i usually cheer for the underdogs and if wakita won the eddie aikau that day, the photos i took of him would be worth millions. and i wouldn’t sell them to any other magazine. tuff shit!!

and last, kinsan called me from the water at 7 am when he got to waimea bay. he ended up shooting ALL DAY on his boogie board. imagine sitting in the channel with no food or water looking over the horizon watching the huge sets come in? on a 8′ pipeline day, there would be 30 water photographers in the water fighting for the best position. for the eddie aikau contest, kinsan was the only guy shooting from a boogie board. that takes guts and determination. that’s what kinsan has. i can’t wait to see the photos!!!

Beautiful Day….

WOW!! i pulled up to haleiwa at 7am. the waves were 4-6′ and going off!!!
only 4 surfers out? really?
i paddled out and caught so many waves. what a workout!!
the current was strong, the freak sets about 8′. 3x landing on my head.
i went to the gym last night and lifted weights for 1 hour, then ran for 1 hour.
today’s 2 hour surfing session at haleiwa was healthier and a lot more fun!!!

then i went to watch the pipeline masters. the waves were 6-8′ with some second reef 10′ sets.
backdoor was as good as it gets. i wish i could have one of those sets… maybe tomorrow?

i really don’t like pizza but when your sitting at a contest in the hot sun and super hungry from a long surf session, i’ll eat it. there was this domino’s pizza girl walking around selling pizzas for $10. what a deal!!!

i watched some heats from the beach at pipe. then i came home and watched some heats from my sofa in my A/C house. i prefer watching it from my house….

there is a store between haleiwa and wailua called “The Market”. no where in the world has better fried chicken. this plate cost me $3.50. i ate there for the first time today and i’m going back there again and again. sorry KFC….