good evening. the so called 40 year swell didn’t get as big as anticipated. but don’t be disappointed because tomorrow might be that day. yeah, the buoy was still coming up this afternoon in the 22 feet 17 seconds range so expect 25′ hawaii scale sets hitting the north shore tonight. don’t be a fool and try to walk along the beaches looking for shells or looking at the stars tonight because it’s too dangerous. and i’m talking about the whole island. when a huge swell like this hits our island, all kinds of weird stuff happen. so stay away from the beach and out of the water unless you are experienced. tomorrow is going to be another big day and i’m hoping the eddie goes off. i have everything packed and ready to go. including my bicycle just in case the roads are closed. sleep tight and see you in the morning.
oh, and today marked the 48th anniversary since pearl harbor was bombed to start WW 2. driving by pearl harbor was weird because i was thinking that it happened on a quiet peaceful day like today. my grandpa use to tell me that he thought it was a joke, until he seen the thick black smoke coming up from pearl harbor. i can’t imagine what i’ll do. anyway, the bottom line is that war is evil. and the sad thing is that we’re in the middle of a war right now and most people don’t even care….. innocent people are getting killed every day. can’t we all be friends????


i had no idea that they were going to broadcast the eddie aikau live over the internet. now the whole world can watch it from their homes. but let me say this. watching the eddie in person is different. just looking out over the horizon seeing these huge mountains coming in is an adrenaline rush. even more than a red bull…. if your in hawaii and have the chance to see the eddie, get your ass out there and witness something you will never witness in your life. and if your not, tune in to the live webcast and get ready for some action. they will decide at 7am hawaii time tomorrow morning. that is 2am japan time. so set your alarms, wake up, and hope it’s on. and look for me diving for lobsters at the waimea bay shorebreak. haha.. just joking…
**CLICK HERE FOR LIVE COVERAGE OF THE EDDIE AIKAU….
**AND CLICK HERE FOR TODAYS WAIMEA BAY CLOSE OUT VIDEO ACTION!!

Pearl Harbor 48 Years ago Today…..

good morning. 6:30 am and i’m looking at the waimea bay camera now. it’s dark but i see huge waves breaking on the outside. i’ll find out in a minute or two if the eddie is on. i just checked the buoy and the swell isn’t as big predicted. they are calling this the 40 year swell but we’ll just have to see. looking like stormy conditions out there on the north shore. town is chest high again and super clean. there will be some west swell wrap around later today in town if you know where to look.
**OH, JUST GOT A CALL FROM KINSAN. EDDIE CONTEST CANCELLED FOR TODAY. WAVES 20′ BUT INCONSISTENT AND RAINY. BUMMER!!!

i have this 11’0 thick and wide longboard i use once in a while. the rails were banged up so i got it sanded and i brought it home for a paint job. it looks like new now…

it took a bar of base coat wax and tropical wax to wax up this huge board. of course, the wax is from destination surf. as for the board, i bought it off a friend for a great price. and since i got it, i’ve taught so many kids how to surf. i paddle out, get a wave, and let them stand up on the nose and surf with them. that’s how i started to surf. oh, the memories…

this is just one of the many kids. and many more to come!!! i just love teaching kids how to surf because i know they will never forget this experience with the ocean. i sure didn’t….[:?????$B!x(B???:]
**CLICK HERE FOR EDDIE AIKAU LIVE WHEN IT HAPPENS. LUCKY!!!