Oh My Gosh!!!
Monday Eddie Might Go!!!
30-40′ Swell Coming!!!

good evening. surfed 2 sessions today. the waves were super fun all day long!!!

i took aki ikeda surfing today. he’s from one of the best river mouths in the world, niyodo. i was confused on how to show him a wave here in hawaii when nothing even compares to his home spot? anyway, we pulled up to bowls in the morning. it was clean but crowded. aki wanted to surf an uncrowded wave so that was easy. took him to my secret spot 30 minutes away and we surfed by ourselves for over 2 hours. we caught so many waves and he even got barreled….

then we went to eat yellow chicken curry plate lunch. so good!!!

then we went to the east side to stop by wade tokoro’s house. wade told me that i haven’t missed any good waves since my surgery. that was good news….

then we surfed kualoa’s in the afternoon. the waves were super fun long reforming waves. my kaysen thunderbird was working unreal… i had a fun day of surfing. i’m feeling good and can’t wait for those backdoor days.. look at this photo. can you believe yesterday was flat like a lake? yeah, we were diving on the outside there. today, it was 10′. that’s hawaii….
**huge swell on the way. maybe 30′ hawaiian scale on monday. wade told me that the next swell might be too big for the eddie. really? eddie might go!!! stay tuned… tanoshimi!!!

good morning. BIG WAVES!!! wow, the north shore is huge!! this is the first swell of three. then next two swells are going to be bigger and possibly the eddie aikau contest at waimea bay might go. it’s been 5 years and not that wakita is invited, it’s going to be interesting. anyway, north shore looks 12′ plus and building. not too good conditions but good enough for the world cup contest at sunset beach. and guess what? town has a little south swell too. chest high perfect waves at bowls and nobody knows because there are only 3 guys out. anyway, my boards are in the car and i’m surfing all day!! see you in the water….

yesterday was a great diving day. i bought a used gun for $100 and tested it out for the first time. for all the fish i will eat this week, it would cost more than $100 so you can say that i made my money back. everything from now is just a bonus!!! check out that huge uhu and moana kali… super oishi dayo….

there was one left over stitch sticking out of my cut. it was getting infected and i was planning to go to my hand doctor to get it removed. but why do that with a doctor on board? yeah, dr. eric itoman was with us yesterday so he volunteered to take it out. more photos coming later…

tiger woods is a perfect example of how sick the media can be. when he wins a golf championship, tiger woods has 5 minutes of prime time news. but when rumors go around about him having an affair, it’s constant media trying to dig up dirt. and you know what’s more sick about it? we all watch it. what a sad world. who gives a shit what he does in his personal life? that’s why i don’t watch tv anymore…..

and last, check out this photo of the irako locals. wanted to say hello to kobayashi-san and everybody that we met along the way. and thanks to all of you in irako that check my blog. sorry i couldn’t surf with you because of my eye but i’ll be back so let’s all GO-NAMINORI!!!!

and last, want to say hello to sakaguchi keisuke. no, this is not sakaguchi kenji. keisuke-san use to live in hawaii and work for Superb Sushi on waialae ave. yeah, he worked with the higa’s. he said to say hello to kevin and lianne… what a small world….