Diamond Head Going Off!!!

good wednesday morning. 6am and small clean waves again. the south swell and north swell dropped a little. still fun but kind of small. i’m guessing that sandy beach will be the best spot again today. i’ll probably head out there around lunch time to get a few. something different…. anyway, have a nice day….

i woke up yesterday and went to check bowls. same thing for the past 2 weeks. it was time to do something different…

i headed out past sandy beach and the waves were going off. 3′ and perfect at full point, half point, pipe littles, and the shorebreak. it’s been a while since i seen all 4 breaks there going off…. i wish i had my surfboard. i didn’t so instead, i went golfing….

it’s been over 3 years since the last time i golfed. and before that, even longer. when i grabbed my golf bag out of my garage, i had to wipe the dust and spider webs off it. but once i hit my first ball off hole 1, i felt it. i felt like tiger woods. haha. we golfed 18 holes and i scored a 94, which is unbelievable for me. 5 pars, and a birdie. if i didn’t screw up on 2 holes and get 5 over par, and 3 over par, i would have golfed in the 80’s. that would have been the best for me… well, there’s always tomorrow. i’m going to put my surfboards and spear guns away and start golfing everyday again… haha….

yesterday was a perfect day for golf and beers. it was really sunny and you could see the green mountains, blue ocean, and even beautiful molokai. tokura-san and i had a blast!!! can’t wait to do it again.
**so to all my golf friends that have been inviting me to golf for the past 8 years. i kept on saying no but i think i want to start golfing again so call me up…. haha…

it was in 1999 when i was invited on a surfing life magazine trip to south africa. after over 28 hours of flying, we finally arrived at cape town. we checked into a house overlooking the beach and everything seemed perfect until our guide told us that cape town was rated the most dangerous city in the world for murders and aids. and also great white shark attacks. honestly, i was scared…. anyway, we ended up surfing there for a few days and drove 12 hours up to jeffery’s bay. 2 cars speeding at 140mph non-stop. why? so we wouldn’t get stopped and kidnapped. it was crazy, but it was cool….

since it was too dangerous to go clubbing or to bars at night, we just stayed in our rented house and drank $2 bottles of fine wine. a lot of bottles, every single night…. then what do 5 drunk surfers do? act nuts. shuji kasuya, sekiya, tetsu urayama, shorty, and i fooling around in a little house on the other side of the world. i still don’t know who’s idea this was. but now that i look back at this photo, it was a great memory for all of us. that was an awesome trip. surfing j-bay 6′ and perfect every day, eating oysters, abalone, 1 kilo steaks, drinking wine, bbq’s, wild safari’s, almost getting attacked by huge elephants, and a lot more….

chris van lennep took awesome photos from the water swimming with the sharks, or from land. we ended up getting a huge 16 page article in the magazine and shuji kasuya got the coolest cover shot. i ended up getting 4 two page spreads that are right here in my portfolio. a trip i will always remember. back then we didn’t have emails and stuff so i just want to say this to the crew. “thanks guys for the awesome trip. it might be 10 years ago but i remember all the great moments of that trip. let’s do it again”…..