good evening. i pulled up to bowls this morning super excited to surf. it was packed but i didn’t care. i paddled out and had a great session. so great that i almost surfed for 3 hours. the waves were chest high and really clean. the water finally warmed up and it felt good to be back surfing in hawaii. i had so much fun that i can’t wait to surf again. i was supposed to go on a short 2 day trip today but it got cancelled. everything happens for a reason right? right… i’m about caught up with my emails and my trips for the rest of the year are pretty much planned. it’s a job somebody has to do. and that somebody is me… haha… have a nice evening…
**ok, here is a video clip i’ve been holding out on for over a year. why? because i kind of don’t like showing secret spots. this one is in the philippines and the reason why i’m showing it now is because i heard the river has poison chemicals and stuff coming out of it. a few surfers got really sick and the mercury levels that were collected were 10 x the standards. so if you want to grow another ear, or lose all your hair, go ahead…. check out this video of “poison river mouth in the philippines”…

here is a much cleaner reef break somewhere in the philippines. only about 10 people on this planet know where it is and i’m one of them. this spot will remain a secret and i can’t wait to go back there someday…

Nice Park!!!

good morning. 6:30am and the south swell is here. it’s looking kind of small right now but good enough for me. i haven’t surfed is such a long time and i feel pretty excited to go surfing now. bowls is chest high with 25 guys out but i’m going out there anyway. i had a dream that i caught a 6′ set out there last night. weird yeah? oh well, it ain’t 6′ but i’m going to wait for a set. i just hope i remember how to surf.. haha.. have a nice day!!!

yesterday was a painting day on the deck outside my house. sweat and get dirty all day long….

then my mom bought some lunch. california rolls, spinach rolls, salmon sashimi, and some coca cola…. ummm…..

then we went to celebrate my nieces sweet 16th birthday at hanaki in manoa. all you can eat, including king crab legs for $20.95. what a deal… i had 3 big plates of king crab and i think the restaurant lost out on me tonight because i sure at more than 20 bucks of crab….

and last, the new law goes into effect on july 1, 2009. you can’t talk on the cell phone while driving. if you get caught, you have to pay $15-100. i agree with the new law because i almost got into a lot of accidents when texting on my phone. abunai. and i’m not surprised why they don’t make it illegal for girls to put on makeup while driving. that’s more dangerous….
**and last last, check out this email i got last night from a guy who’s name i will keep a secret…
Kirby,
What are you doing? Post more Yoko pics, she blows away Nora.

he’s referring to this blog i posted yesterday: GO-NAMINORI IN SURFER GIRLS….. yoko has some hard core fans around the world… settle down boys….