we pulled up to haleiwa at 8:30am after checking all the way down to mokuleia. nobody was out so when i got out there, i didn’t know how big the sets were until the first 6′ one caught me by surprise and i was done. then the second one pounded me on my head too. then i had to catch a wave in and paddle out again. that’s what surfing haleiwa is all about. you got to take your poundings. in fact, this morning was the first time in my life i was surfing haleiwa alone. only for 20 minutes but i got a few good waves so i was stoked… the current was as strong as it gets and riding a little 6’2 didn’t help. paddling, paddling, and paddling…

we passed by laniakea and oh my gosh!! the waves were 6-8′ and peeling perfectly across….

back to the dove house for a great after barbecue lunch…..

fighting the current at haliewa was hard work. and after a morning of hard work, a nice steak/chicken plate made from the dove house couldn’t be beat…. saiko!!


rocky’s in right out in front of the go-naminori house so i went to check it, even though i knew it was too big. there were 2 guys out there trying to surf it. i said trying… 8′ rocky point is not surfable. unless you call going straight on 8′ closeouts surfing….
**went to an evening surf on the east side at this secret spot. waves going off!! more about it tomorrow. i’m going to sleep. goodnight..

we went to perry dane’s house to buy a big ahi today. you know what
that means? fresh maguro party starts now!!!!

this morning haleiwa was so good. nami yokatta yo. 4-6’….