Korean BBQ lunch with longtime friends. toda-san, takami-san, and
maki-san. minna sugoi ii hito desu….

good morning. 6am thursday morning. waves on the north shore dropped and the conditions look a little bumpy. town is clean but looking small. seen a waist high wave at bowls and one guy is out already. trade winds pretty strong so waikiki to kewalo’s is your best bet today. have a nice day and see you in the water…

ok, it’s out!!! the new surf1st in japan. there is a pretty big article on the south shore of hawaii. got some family and friends in there…. by the way, that’s amami oshima’s tetta mori on the cover. where is that spot? secret spot in hawaii. sorry, can’t and won’t tell…

“KEEP ON SMILING”… what an awesome title. that’s what the south shore is all about, keep on smiling… check out my little nephew seth moniz driving off the bottom on a pretty solid wave at another secret spot in hawaii. this is one of the best water shots i’ve ever taken. why? because that’s family….

and check out this spread. paradise or what? wanted to thank my friend carter lee for letting me hang out in his condo on one of the best and biggest summer swells in years. from ala moana to diamond head, i can count 20 spots. can you find them??? anyway, go to a bookstore or surf shop and pick up this magazine. and please bring me back one… mahalo…

good evening. hope you had as much as a wonderful day as i did. finally got to surf a real session since my eye surgery. went out to kaisers and the waves were pretty fun. 2′ barrels in the inside bowl. my eye is still sensitive and red but i think i can see better than i use to be able to. right after i caught my first wave, i felt like a kid again… can’t wait to surf again tomorrow….

ok, most of my friends are younger than me. so i’m the old school guy. but not today. i felt young again so i started acting young. i got this look from garut.. what’s up homies…[:?????$B!x(B???:]

i keep on telling my japanese friends not to stand up on the reef. i’ve been telling them over and over for years and years. but today, i wish somebody told me the same thing. i stood up on the reef and i’m paying for it now….

and last, the colors of hawaii. have a wonderful evening…
**by the way, the only japanese surfer left in the sunset pro is izuki tanaka. he’s in the 4th round that should wrap up tomorrow….