they say not to go to shore while in indonesia. malaria? war? terrorists? i don’t know. but i’m a pretty curious guy. so every chance i got to go to shore, i did. so i woke up at 5am one morning. the tide was low and we had time to kill so i decided to visit a little village near our anchorage. it was kind of scary because the people didn’t seem so friendly. and it can get intimidating when you see men half naked walking up to you with a big knife in their hands waving it around while talking loud in some language you don’t understand. at one point, i was worried. i was thinking that if that guy chopped me up and ate me, nobody would know. so i stepped back and headed back to the boat. i was bummed out thinking why they seemed so unfriendly. then when i looked at the clock, it was still 6:15 in the morning. haha… i think i went to see them too early? the guy was probably yelling at me “hey you idiot, what the heck are you thinking?”… i went to another village near that one later that day and everybody was so kind. i took some awesome video. awesome…. stay tuned….

hi everyone. half way home. tired but happy tired. ima doko?

so there we were, anchored out this beautiful island where one of the best right handers in indo is. it was 1pm and i thought i’d go for a surf later in the evening when the winds back off. so i went to the beach to kill time picking shells. my eyes were only on the beach looking for rare shells. hours passed and i didn’t keep track of time. next thing, i looked up to look at the waves. kyle took off on a overhead wave, the thing lined up perfect. he did 4 big turns and kicked out. then i thought to myself…. what the heck am i doing on the beach picking freaking shells??? i felt like an idiot because the waves were going off right in front of me and i didn’t even know it. so i ran down the beach, had the dingy pick me up and take me back to the boat, grabbed my board, and raced off to the lineup. gosh, the waves were going off!!! yeah guys, lesson learned. if you go all the way to indo to surf, surf. pick shells when it’s flat. haha…. anyway, here was my catch of that day. good shells and good waves…
**by the way, i’m going to introduce our crew one by one. everybody was cool and had a special story that i wanted to share. so stay tuned…