good morning. 7am here on another chilly day. north shore still stormy. lani’s probably the best but it’s all not that great. cloudy out there and looking cold. town knee/waist high and a lot cleaner. 2 guys out at rockpiles, 9 guys out at bowls now. if your desperate, diamond head will probably be your best bet in town. more stormy days to come so get use to it. enjoy this wintery day in paradise….

how many of you seen the movie “rambo?” or should i say, how many of you didn’t see that movie? gosh, rambo was a classic. stallone coming out with a gun screaming his head off killing hundreds of vietnamese and not getting shot. he was the man. 20 years later, stallone is back in theaters coming january 25th. i have to see that one….

and check out stallone in the tree waiting with his bow and arrow getting ready to scream his head off and kill hundreds of pigs…. haha… first blood, hawaiian style…

and last, have a happy smile day!!!

good evening. check out how beautiful diamond head was today. the waves were shoulder high with perfect conditions. naoka and i went to jump into bowls for a session. only had 2 guys out when we got out and when the waves came, it was super clean. and the water was crystal clear too. wish i had my mask and spear… haha…

i was pho shock today. went to mccully shopping center to eat at my favorite pho restaurant on the island, viet cafe. walked to the door and tried to open it. shit, i was closed… closed forever. pho shock…. so i went to pho saigon to eat one. it’s pretty good but not as good as viet cafe….

surf/dive. such a great combo. especially when your stuck on a boat for 12 days. surf or no surf, your happy. i went to fiji a while ago and was on a boat for 2 weeks. that time, i didn’t bring my dive gear so when the waves was shitty, i didn’t have anything to do. so i just drank gallons and gallons of kava with the locals while they sang all night long. after checking out this hawaii skin diver fiji video clip, now i wish i took my dive gear. oh well, there’s always next time… bula fiji….. by the way, in the photo above is takayuki fukuchi, me, and tokura-san on a Dove boat trip in 1999. launched from nadi, went around tavarua and ended up down south at this island called kandavu. strong kava, warm hearts, and paradise…
i’m not sure but that surf spot in the video looks like frigate pass. that wave is sick!!! take off head high, kick out double overhead…. i want to go back again someday…

and last, check out the 5 day weather forecast for hawaii. yuck!!! rain..[:??$B!/(B:][:??$B!/(B:][:??$B!/(B:] oh well, there’s always diving….

good morning. wavs down in the country and the swell turned more out of the north. lani’s should be the spot. town has some waist high waves with a few guys out at bowls. i seen some perfect chest high waves yesterday evening at bowls. looked super fun. going to go get wet somewhere… see ya….
check out some of these celebs.. some are over 40 and looking pretty solid….

i went to one of janet jackson’s concerts and sat 5th row. oh my gosh, she had the abs of steel…. bricks man… and at the superbowl halftime show when her top came off, oh my gosh too…. haha…

julia roberts is pretty woman. a while back, somebody released a home video of her all drunk and acting crazy. a lot of people said it ruined her image. i think it made her image stronger. why? because she’s normal….

shakira is another solid ass chick. oh my gosh, the first time i seen her music video, it blew me away.. so did her hair….

and last, like a virgin madonna. touched for the very first time? yeah right…. madonna will always be in my ipod. all of her classic songs brings back some awesome memories. madonna rocked the world back in the 80’s and still is rocking the world today…. she’s the bomb…
**anyway, all these bodies making me want to go work out. today i’m going to run a mile, hit the gym for an hour, and end it with some yoga. then after all that, i’m going to Mcdonald’s to eat 2 big macs… haha… have a nice day…