wow, i just got back from diamond head. left at 7am and back in my house at 8:15am. pulled up to cliffs and seen this… 3′ epic perfect no wind surf….

took a peek around the corner and lighthouse was the spot. if i were to rate lighthouse on a scale of 1 to 10. today was 9.95. paddled out with carissa moore, caught 5 epic waves, and i was done… now i have the whole day ahead of me…. see ya…

good morning. 6:30am. no wind and perfect conditions. great for diving. but with all these sharks recently, no thank you. and after 10 days of feeling shitty from a cold, i finally woke up feeling normal. got to pack my suitcase and get ready for another journey. have a nice day….

i was at sand island yesterday and seen this huge fire towards the airport. it was freakin huge. some guys at sand island were saying that an airplane crashed. really???

i’m going to be in bali for a stop over next week so hope i have some time to pick up a new gun from andre’s shop. ever since i started using his guns, the fish have no chance. if i aim for the head, that’s where the spear is going in. pretty simple….

and last, i was going through my iphoto library deleting photos. 30,125 photos are making my computer run slow. i stopped at this photo because i thought it looked pretty cool. i took this photo february 20, 2008 at 10:01:09 AM. it was during the womens bodyboard contest at pipeline. i couldn’t figure out who this is. does anybody know her? pretty sick perfect pipeline wave. now you see it, now you don’t… deleted forever….

good evening. wanted to welcome back the vog. yeah, it was hazy out there today. seemed like the waves came up in town a little. passed by kewalos and seen all the boys out there. might jump in and get wet tomorrow.. have a great evening…
**what’s the difference between a typhoon and a hurricane? good question. their both “tropical cyclones” and the only difference is where they occur. they call it “typhoons” if it’s in the northwest pacific ocean, west of the dateline. and they call it “hurricanes” if it’s in the north atlantic or the northeast pacific ocean east of the dateline. remember that big hurricane turned typhoon 2 years ago that started off mexico and tracked all the way to japan? i do. we surfed some of the biggest waves japan had to offer… anyway, getting back to typhoons and hurricanes. there’s a big typhoon around the okinawa area. and there’s a big hurricane that hit america. check out the damage from yesterdays hurricane ike….

ouch, if that was my boat, i would cry…

this is crazy….

same storms? then why so much more damage in america than in japan? i think i know why. they build the houses in japan typhoon and earthquake proof. i’ve seen a house being built from the bottom and let me tell you, it’s solid as a rock. i can’t say the same thing for houses in america. they build houses in america the cheapest way. that’s why when a hurricane hits, the houses are totally destroyed….
**the smartest people are the okinawan’s. they build their houses out of cement. i’ve been through a category 5 typhoon there 7 years ago and i felt as safe as can be. i was sitting in my rock solid cement hotel looking out the window watching cars and shit flying by. it as nuts….