good morning. 5:45am aloha friday. still got some huge surf on the north shore. and still got some fun waves in town too. surf, surf, surf… everybody go surf!! have a nice surf day!!!
oh my gosh!! check out this sick photo from surfline.com….

this was pipeline 2 days ago. i was out that morning when the second reef sets started to come in. i paddled down to off-the-wall to get a last wave in and there were 12′ second reef waves white washing through. the other 2 guys paddled in and it was just me out there trying to catch a wave in. i only had my 7’0 and there was no way i could have paddled into any one of those. i had 3 options. try to take off on a 12′ white wash and go straight in? wait for a good set and free fall off the drop and break my board and head on the reef? or give in and paddle back around pipe and come in by the lifeguard stand at ehukai? 10 years ago, i would have chose the second option. two days ago, i chose the third. it’s still too early in the winter season to be doing stupid things and getting hurt. not that i saw this photo, i don’t know what the hell i was doing down at off the wall in the first place…. sean davey shot this from a very safe place. on the beach…. gosh, this is a crazy ass photo..

good big thursday evening. gosh, the waves where huge today on the north shore…. crowded, huge, and clean…

passed waimea bay around 10am and seen some 15′ sets. 50 guys out with 7 surfers per wave. that place is out of control…..

dove boss tokura-san came today and cameraman nakajima-san came yesterday. what perfect timing… if they came a month ago when we had bad weather and small waves, that would have sucked…. but from now, the waves should be good all winter… welcome to hawaii….

the traffic around waimea bay was nuts. town bound was backed up to foodland and waimea bound was backed up all the way to the traffic lights at haleiwa. it kind of pisses me off when tourists drive by waimea and slow down to check the waves causing all the traffic. but you know what’s funny, i do the same thing too… but slower… slow enough to take this photo…. haha… tomorrow more big waves, more traffic, and a lot more people….
**by the way, heard the waves at diamond head were going off today!! overhead and perfect conditions….

this was the left off waimea bay. one of the most dangerous lefts in the world. in fact, it’s unsurfable. but you know what? i heard about 15 years ago, mark occhilupo surfed that left at waimea bay when it was 20′. and also heard he was ripping it too…..

and last, check out this photo of the earth setting over the moon’s horizon… that’s sick….

good morning. 6:30am thursday morning. high surf warning up for the north shores. pipe is huge and breaking from the third reef. it’s going to be a waimea bay day. town has some small waves too, looks chest high and i bet diamond head is going off again. going north. have a nice day!!!

gosh, have you been to aloha tower recently? i haven’t been there in a long time but it’s a pretty cool place to hang out and got some pretty cool shops….

and the sunset from there is awesome too…. it’s been a while since i’ve seen such a cool sunset light up the skies yellow, purple, and pink. cool….

and last, itai….