good evening. went out to backdoor this morning when it was still dark. the waves came down from yesterday but still super clean and fun. i surfed for an hour and shot for an hour. it was the second picture perfect day of the winter season. no winds and no clouds…. super sunny and felt super so good…. check out the action today…

i pulled up super early and matchi was already getting ready for the dawn patrol session. check out the sun just coming up from behind the mountain….. norihiko nakayama….

naohisa ogawa also paddled out super early. going backside at backdoor is kind of dangerous because it’s shallow and there’s no channel. if i were a goofy footer, i wouldn’t want anything to do with backdoor. here is naohisa getting ready to bash the lip….

ushikoshi also paddled out early. we call this move in surfing “12’O Clock”, or “Straight Up”…..

shinpei horiguchi giving everybody in japan a peace sign….[:?????$B!x(B???:]

gosh, when i downloaded this photo today, i thought this was tony moniz. but tony wasn’t out today. this is joshua moniz… a mini tony….

this grom got the set of the day. seth moniz pulling in before school starts…
**more photos coming tomorrow morning…

good morning. 5:15am monday morning. it’s still early but i got to get out there and surf. 2 more days of light winds before the trades come back so enjoy. the waves look smaller than yesterday but it’s probably going to be fun…. have a nice day…
check out more action from yesterday’s backdoor session….

this chick is from australia and was catching more waves than the guys out there. freaking blue crush man….

peek-a-boo…..

there was this model doing a photo shoot on the beach for this clothing company called “Blue Moon Blue”. what a perfect day for a photo shoot…. oh, wanted to say hi to makoto-san….

and last, this is the reef at backdoor. oh my gosh!!! i hit it once today and luckily i didn’t get stuck in a crack… it’s only knee deep so better be careful….

good evening. today was the best day of the whole winter season that started back in october. it was sunny, the water was clean, the waves were clean, no winds, and a lot of happy faces…. i pulled up to backdoor at 7:20am, grabbed my board and was out there. i got another pretty sick barrel today. even better than yesterday so i was stoked. it got crowded after a while so i went in and grabbed my camera. check out these photos….. these ARE NOT the best shots. i’m sending those in to a magazine so you will have to wait.. gomen ne…

this is tony moniz. tony is the reason why i’m surfing the north shore. if i didn’t meet him back in the 80’s, i would be still surfing diamond head everyday…. thanks tony….

this kid is 11 years old and from japan. i think he’s the youngest japanese surfer to get barreled at backdoor. shinpei is taking care of him so he’s in good hands. expect this kid to blow up….

gosh, the kids are getting younger and younger. these 3 groms don’t know how lucky they are to come to hawaii and surf the north shore while their classmates are in japan playing jun ken po….

this is ushikoshi. he’s been here for a while finally got some sun and good surf today….

shinpei can surf from knee high beach breaks in japan to 25′ waimea bay. keep an eye on him….

japanese surfers always hang out on the beach after they surf. they seemed happy and i hope they were because today was the best day of the season so far. pro surfers matchi, ushikoshi, shimpei, and yukio. see you guys tomorrow…..

and last, the traffic is crazy out on the north shore. this is about 3pm on the way out of haleiwa today. this is by the stoplight and it’s stop and go all the way past chun’s reef….. be patient because it will take over an hour to move 2 miles….
**anyway, super tired and sunburned so i’m going to sleep now. it’s only 8pm but lights out…. more photos from backdoor tomorrow morning….