good morning. still got some waves in town. looks solid 3′ with perfect conditions. another south swell on the way. typhoon hitting japan. waves everywhere. enjoy….
everybody’s been saying that my eye is getting worse. i went to visit my eye doctor yesterday and he told me that it’s time for pterygium surgery. dr. jorge camara is the one of the best eye surgeons in the world and i’m going to leave my eye up to him. so instead of chasing typhoons in japan or the philippines in october like i was planning to, i’m going to come back and get my eye fixed. i was thinking about which is more important. getting perfect barrels? or my eye? to tell you the truth, until today, barrels were. stupid yeah? that’s the surfer in me. i was planning to push it back to march so i can surf the north shore early season but forget that too. first things first. my health is more important than surfing. i just found that out. i guess i’m finally growing up….
**this clip might make you throw up but that’s my doctor performing the same surgery i will need. yikes…. can somebody please hold my hand???

good evening. felt like being in the water by myself so drove down the street to check out kaikos. pulled up at 4pm and nobody was out at the point. it was 4′ and perfect! had the place to myself. caught 5 waves in 20 minutes, jumped back in my car, and drove away. the best 20 minutes i had to myself in a long time. what would i do without the ocean? probably be in jail….

when i was in okinawa, we were waiting for typhoons. now, okinawa’s finally going to get one. surf before it hits, hide indoors when it goes over, and surf right after. that’s the pattern. it’s fun, but freakin dangerous. to all my friends there, please be careful…

speaking of okinawa. this is kazubo-san. kazubo-san is the typical image of okinawan people. surf, have fun, welcome, and great heart. the true meaning of “mensore”. here he is holding up a Hard Reef tshirt that our friend jasmin young designed. cool artwork…..

and the kids of okinawa are so cute. i wish i could adopt all of them…. this is how you do a “shaka” in okinawa….
**and last, wanted to with jasmine a HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!! wish i was at your party… have fun and another great year!![:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????????:][:??$B!^(B??????:]

seen the LOST crew filming on the road yesterday and today. yesterday on my street. and today at the chevron down my street. i don’t watch LOST so i don’t care. just thought i’d share. if your a LOST fan, head down to kaimuki because they are filming right now….