good evening. today is the smallest day for waves on all shores. the surf reports were calling it flat-2 on all shores so most surfers were over it. so we pull up to laniakea at 9:30am and seen this perfect chest high set peeling perfectly across. and only 2 people out. we got out there, then the 2 people came in. so aoki-san and i had the whole lanikea lineup to ourselves. score!!! i knew it wasn’t going to last long and it didn’t. an hour later, a few other surfers came out. one of them was shin-san. i think we scored today…

don’t let the lineup fool you. if you don’t go, you won’t know…

took a drive up to ehukai beach park after. gosh, it was beautiful!!! the surf report was calling pipeline flat to 1 foot….

did i pull up at the right time???? this isn’t flat to 1 foot. maybe it was a freak set because nobody was out. where the heck is everybody??? after lunch, we went to stand up paddle at velzyland…

check this out. you won’t find fresher shirasu anywhere on this island. this is fresh off the boat from yamari in wakayama, japan. wanted to thank kimura-san and family for making my dream dinner after a long day in the ocean.. itadakimasu!!!

all i have to say is “LIFE IS GOOD”….[:????????$B!r(B:]

good morning. 6:30am on this chilly and windy tuesday morning. 2 more days till christmas guys!! well, one more for japan. gosh, how time flies. looking at the waves right now. north shore looks pretty flat. i can see a couple 1′ sets at pipe. town is small too. maybe 1′. umm, tough call today. maybe surf once in town, then once in the country. trade winds finally back strong. now the water should be cleaning up fast. i got my dive gear ready to go. and i’m more than ready to go. i heard obama has been sighted around the island. yesterday i seen so many police closing the streets in kaimuki. i think he was trying to find my house. haha.. but i was thinking what i would say if is seen him. maybe “hey president obama, let’s go surf!!”…. have a nice day….

when i was in bali in october, i went to kuta beach to drink a bintang while watching the sunset. i was blinded and my eyes were red from the sun being so bright. so i reached in my pocket for my polarized vonzipper glasses….

what a freakin difference. check out the same sunset through the lens. if you don’t have these, your missing out beautiful sunsets. that’s for sure.. thanks muramatsu-san and vonzipper for the support….

THE SHOT. back in papeete after a week long diving trip on manihi island. we stay at tim nakamura’s house on the mountain overlooking moorea. out comes his 6 year old kid manoarii. tim told us he just started playing chess. so he wants to play us. first goes wendell ko. the kid checkmates him. so after studying his moves, it was my turn. i’m not an expert in chess but i can play pretty good. and there wasn’t no way i was letting a 6 year old beat me. so there i was trying to make an attack move that manoarii would counter in a few seconds. i was trying so hard to beat him and thought i really was, until i heard “CHECKMATE”… oh my gosh. i lost to a kid. is he the next bobby fisher? i think so….
**and last, the first CD i ever bought was the carpenters greatest hits. i have it in my ipod on my favorites and listen to it all the time. to this day, i still karen carpenter has the most beautiful voice in the world. merry christmas darling is my favorite christmas song and when ever it plays on the radio while i’m driving, i roll up my windows and it’s instant karaoke.. i know the words by heart. haha. this song makes me happy…